Hey all,

Today I stripped my rear sub frame which I'm going to convert to dry, Does anything need to be done to the sub frame itself or do I just re install dry components? Also I noticed this number painted on it followed by a blue star any ideas?

Cheers

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Jenk.

You need to deform the bayonet plates inside both subbies so the cones sit flat.
Not sure if other mods needed to the rears, I don't have a dry frame to check the difference inside.

Also be aware both the front and rear wet arms have a bit different geometry to dry ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The number is just the BMC part number for the sub-frame. Some people wanting originality re-do the stencil after painting their sub-frame.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

As I say everytime this topic comes up, WHY

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1964 998cc Cooper
1971 Mini K x 2
1972 Clubman GT

Ditto. Hydro is far easier to work on, no $&^$# cone compressor or swear words needed. Just dump the fluid, fix/replace bits, pump up. Easy! I find (touches wood) hydro bags outlast rubber cones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just starting to build up my wets now .
I think it's a perception that dry 'handle better'
Hell minis in general handle better , just get in em an drive !
Jenk , you can flick me your bags if your not goon a use em

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Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K

The brake lines run differently, wet they run under the arms and exit at a hole at the bottom of the subframe, dry they run over them and the hose terminates at the 45 degree angle thingo a few inches from the radius arm nut. The handbrake quadrant uses a clevis pin not a bolt, and there is a different handbrake cable...and no bumpstop. Radius arms also have a bolt for the shocker rather than a pin for the spring.

Subframes structurally are interchangeable from what I can see; only difference in use is where the brake hose terminates to and those tags you are meant to bend over that hold the bag.

Minispares sell a kit which is what I used.

Jon

Thanks I thought that might be what it is but what about the Blue Star after the number... any idea what that's about?

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Jenk.

I guess just because the car is already stripped and thought that going to rubber cones would be an upgrade given that's what happened with production, and also whilst I was stripping the car I damaged one of the fluid lines, rather than replace it I figure convert it, also my car is an early Deluxe which didn't have the channel in the floor for the hydro lines to be tucked away/protected in leaving the lines susceptible to future damage... that's about it really.

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Jenk.

Im not sold on converting now... if I do Ill consider your request Simon.

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Jenk.

Thanks for that Jonnoh... why did you convert and are you happy with the result?

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Jenk.

Around Wakefield Park back in 2005 or so,my mate's turboed 998 Deluxe on rubber cones couldn't outhandle my hydro (which has front shocks and comp rear bumpstops). I've had wet and dry Minis, a hydro rides so much better on our crap roads. And can be made to handle too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm converting possibly because I don't know what dry is like! I had a hydro mini about 20 years ago. The problems as I saw it was that it would slowly go down with time, requiring a pump up. The only place I could do this was about 20km away I think. Or it would slowly list to one side, although no leak was evident. Then the hose blew off the front bag. I recall the bag was quite stuck due to rust and I had problems removing it. Driving 20km to get it pumped up again was difficult without the exhaust hitting the ground, or the tyre rubbing on the guard. If you have the pumper thingo I guess a lot of this isn't as important.

The other thing was they do dive under brakes, hence apparently why they use a front shock sometimes.

I'm sure they ride better than dry however. Whether they handle worse or better than dry I could not say.

Jon

I'm fairly sure the change from hydro to dry in production was a monetary factor, dry was cheaper !!!

If you do continue down the dry path may I suggest using springs instead of rubber cones, thiese will give back some of your comfort.

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1964 998cc Cooper
1971 Mini K x 2
1972 Clubman GT

I have always had dry when in England. I transfered to Italy a few ago and bought another dry mini. A lovely 1991 carbed cooper. I just hated driving it on the Italian roads, it was very hard and uncomfortable. I replaced the shocks, spring and cones but it made little difference. I had no choice but to sell the cooper.
Life can be very boring without a mini in the garage to repair. I decided to look for an early Innocenti Mini with hydrolastic suspension. I found one locally, with the suspension totally collapsed, rusty hydro pipes etc. I obviously had to have it.
I didn't know much about hydrolastic suspension but it was very easy to replace the pipes. I only needed to replace one of the units, which was also very easy. I then pumped it up with a modified grease gun and bingo! The same height all round without any problems.
The real surprise was when I drove the car, it was much more comfortable than a dry mini. Even on the farm roads it was a pleasure to drive.
It is only a bog standard 850, so I can't really say how it handles at high speed but for my needs and due to the demanding Italian roads, it is a joy to drive. I would never change to wet. It is not that complicated to repair and parts are still available on eBay.