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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 1:13 pm 
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Hi All, I have noticed that my radiator seems to have a fair bit of crud in it. What’s the best way to flush it out insitu?
Bman

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 2:52 pm 
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"the best way" is to pull it out, desolder the endcaps and run a wiper blade steel through the tubes, rinse and repeat. On reassembly insert a baffle plate top and bottom 1/3 from the pipe snout to get a fuller flow path.

Or

Another way is to pull thermostat then put the cover back on, jam the hose into the cover snout and wrap a rag around it holding on tight with ye left hand. With the hose on full blast, thump the rad top with your right hand.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 3:18 pm 
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......or pay $70 for a nice new alloy one from eBay.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 3:43 pm 
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Maybe take it to Natrad for there expertise.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 3:50 pm 
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I remember being told that a basic in-situ flush could be achieved by disconnecting both hoses and reverse-flushing with a garden hose, suitably packed so it tightly fits the radiator outlet.

Question is, which way is normal coolant flow - bottom to top or the opposite?

Also, how effective are the radiator flush products, like this?

http://search.supercheapauto.com.au/sea ... or%20flush

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 4:16 pm 
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If you have a heater installed it's worth flushing it out properly too. Just make sure the chunks out of the radiator don't end up in the heater matrix.

Flush both ways with as much water as possible until it all comes out clean and clear.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 4:42 pm 
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Natrad are way overpriced I found, search out a smaller radiator shop. I use Blacktown radiators, he's an old Korean that knows his stuff.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 8:04 pm 
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Radiator flow is top to bottom.
If you are using a hose to flush it, you need a huge flow of water not just pressure. Otherwise the water will flow around blockages.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 9:07 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
A hose won't dislodge really, as one notices when washing the pavement with a hose. Chemical action and rodding out is the best way.

A factory original radiator in good condition will take care of the heat from a 1330 on a 40 degree summer day if the engine is chemically cleaned and the radiator is cleaned as well by someone like Natrad.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 7:11 am 
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I'm with Mick , get it pulled apart and rodded by a rad specialist , it will save you heartache down the track , i had my van radiator re-coed for $150 .


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 10:27 am 
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Could simply draining it help?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 1:48 pm 
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zulu_warrior1976 wrote:
Could simply draining it help?

Nope, the cores get coated with crud, and eventually can block. When this happens they need rodding out as Mick said. They then acid dip it and it's spotless.
If cores are not blocked yet, a drain, backwash, and use of a radiator cleaner solution may be worth a try.... :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 5:28 pm 
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Disconnect heater hose and flush both ways, then with radiator cap off. About as good as you can get in situ without special equipment. This saves removing thermostat. If you want to use a cleaner, flush it first then put cleaner in as per instructions then when it's done it's voodoo magic, flush it again. The cooling system is a maze of passageways and little pockets where gremlins can hide so even if you do decide to take radiator out for proffesional clean out, it's worth flushing the rest of the system otherwise the little buggers will just move into your nice clean rad.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 2:07 pm 
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Just drained it and fished it with the hose. Not the most thorough method but it got a lot clearer. It’ll do for me for now until the next rebuild.

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