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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 3:34 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Adelaide
Hi All,
My 60’s K has hydrolastic suspension but I’m thinking of changing to coil overs and hi lo’s.
Can this be done? Should it be done?
Probably a bit of a noob question.


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1967 mini Cooper S


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 5:27 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
(gets popcorn)....
If it ain't broke, I wouldn't 'fix' it. Beyond adding shocks to the front and comp hydro bumpstops to the rear.
My 'Matic is this same setup, rides well and handles too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.:mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 5:57 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Wollongong, NSW
Coil overs are very different to coils..

The "coil overs" have springs over the shocks and mount to the front shock mount and rear shock tower. These places aren't designed to take the load of the car.
Attachment:
image (1).jpg


The coil replacement cones go in the subframe in place of the old rubber cones or bags.
Attachment:
image (2).jpg


I put brand new rubber cones and shocks on my car, along with adjustable hi-los, lower arms and tie bars. Much better than the 50 year old stuff on there before, and it feels more comfortable than my 2010 Mazda!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 7:11 pm 
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Location: Bundy
What is wrong with the existing Hydro?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 8:23 pm 
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Great info. All the existing hydro infrastructure needs to be replaced. I’m at the point of removing the sub frames and reconditioning it all. Now’s the opportunity to consider upgrading or replacing.


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Zulu...

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 10:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2013 10:48 pm
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Location: Adelaide
We converted our K to dry, and my Deluxe will go the same way. I was never happy with the way the car sat on hydro. Matt Read's hilos have a different profile to most and are nearly as good as hydrolastic for comfort.

One of the steel hydro lines actually failed and started leaking as the car was being disassembled... I like having one less system with the potential to fail and disable the car I rely on day-to-day, and it certainly doesn't ride any worse!

Then again, I prefer rod change gearboxes :P

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 11:00 pm 
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I'm a big hydro fan. One of my projects is fitting Koni adjustable dampers to the rear, discarding the helper springs and modifying the trailing arm mounts to suit. This includes adjustable dampers at the front and the comp bumpstops as mentioned by the good Doctor. Plus adjustable lower control arms & tie rods. Plus fixing the incorrect toe-in at the rear & neg camber brackets. The result should be interesting.

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1967 Cooper S - nearly ready for reg.
1965 Cooper S shell - Dents, rust & sanding to do. Fun.
1964 Mark II Jaguar - Heavy car (heavy on fuel, on tyres, & oil!)
1972 Jag XJ6 - Even heavier - A tank with 2 rusty tanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 8:44 am 
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I don't think that will work....

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 9:20 am 
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1071 S wrote:
I don't think that will work....

Cheers, Ian

Me either. I just pulled the back end out of my son's '71 ebay bought clubby and found someone had fitted rear shocks instead of the helper springs. But it had no motor so I dunno if it worked. :roll:
These springs pull the arse down so it sits level, and shocks won't do that.
Now, if you could fit both... but there's no room without performing body surgery.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.:mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 9:43 am 
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Well, we will see. i am yet to be convinced the helper springs do much to lower the arse end: they don't seem all that strong.
My view has been these springs simply prevent the hydro strut from disengaging from the displacer when you happen to jack up the rear wheels.
Fiddling when suspension settings is good fun. Much better than block sanding bodywork!

_________________
1967 Cooper S - nearly ready for reg.
1965 Cooper S shell - Dents, rust & sanding to do. Fun.
1964 Mark II Jaguar - Heavy car (heavy on fuel, on tyres, & oil!)
1972 Jag XJ6 - Even heavier - A tank with 2 rusty tanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 11:28 am 
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Read your PMs ;)

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 3:27 pm 
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Too busy blocking bodywork. Too many projects! :P :P :P

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1967 Cooper S - nearly ready for reg.
1965 Cooper S shell - Dents, rust & sanding to do. Fun.
1964 Mark II Jaguar - Heavy car (heavy on fuel, on tyres, & oil!)
1972 Jag XJ6 - Even heavier - A tank with 2 rusty tanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 8:05 pm 
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The idea of the helper springs is to set the car in a certain attitude.
Without helper springs there is in theory nothing to stop the car from rocking back and forward like a see saw.
The car is resting on fluid and the heavy end will win.

My Morris 1100 had broken helper springs (they use torsion bars) when I got it and it was rather entertaining.
Fun party trick, if you reverse with the handbrake applied you can ride up on the trailing arms till they reach full droop!


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