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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 11:40 am 
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1275cc
1275cc

Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2013 5:44 pm
Posts: 2178
Location: Camden
Just spent nearly 4 days fault-finding electrics on the new rebuild, using new reproduction tail light units as the originals had the usually die cast rot under the chrome. All the rear lights came on together.
I guessed that something got crossed-up in the wiring when I reinstalled it. Hard to tell if the wires are Green/Purple or Green/Black or Green/Brown.
Nothing worked until I removed one fuel tank to get the new tail-light assembly out. Normally, the bottom twin filament globeholder has a red lead (for tail light) and a green lead(for brake). But these were connected to the opposite terminals on the globes inside the globeholder.
If using these new tail-lamp units, just check first!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 12:17 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 12:36 pm
Posts: 608
Location: Bentleigh, Melbourne
Ah yes! The old "remove the fuel tank" situation to troubleshoot wiring issues. Did it a while ago. PIA for 5 minutes to sort the wiring out...

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 10:16 pm 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39622
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Chong's Mini K doesn't have this problem. A previous owner put 2 self tappers through the LH lamp base to hold it. The 3 studs just sit in their holes for location. It's a bloody good idea IMO.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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