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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 11:59 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 11:01 am
Posts: 339
Location: TOWNSVILLE NQ
What is the correct order the heat shield is mounted? Heat shield first, then Carbi spacers. I have a feeling mine is on wrong.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 1:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Yes heat shield on first.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.:mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 10:20 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2015 7:01 am
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Location: South Australia
Attachment:
IMG_1811.JPG

Attachment:
IMG_2666.JPG

Looks like my spacers were fitted before the head shield, so that's how I reinstalled them.
Does this mean I will have to swap them around if I am looking at the photos correctly?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2019 11:17 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 11:01 am
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Location: TOWNSVILLE NQ
Yes, mine was the same minimate. I asked, because I felt the throttle linkage on carbies were close to the manifold. I added another Carbi gasket to get better clearance? Still have tuning issues though.
Engine has has high idle. I have adjusted linkages and jets as per manual. I have ordered new 'M' needles from MiniSport.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2019 12:32 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2013 5:44 pm
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Location: Camden
Sometimes the heat shield fouls on the outside header pipes if they have a generous curve. The original factory headers had a tight bend to clear here. The spacers are used in the 'wrong' place to adjust for this.
Check for vacuum leaks on the inlet side - you should be able to stall the engine by closing the throttle butterflies completely.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2019 5:37 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2017 6:39 pm
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Location: Perth, WA
mine is the same as Stibbsy and minimate also...

but I was going off other photos found on the interweb... :oops:

then again, mines not a cooper s :mrgreen: that's my excuse...


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 5:25 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 11:01 am
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Location: TOWNSVILLE NQ
Still have tuning issues though.
Engine has has high idle. I have adjusted linkages and jets as per manual. I have ordered new 'M' needles from MiniSport.[/quote]

Some of the crap you buy can cause problems, Found the diaphragm in the PCV valve was u/s.
Luckily I kept the original diaphragm even though it' over 25 years old. Running good now.
Just have to sought out the clutch now.

No reflection on Mini Sport re the PCV diaphragm.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 6:02 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2013 5:44 pm
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Location: Camden
Going through similar issues adjusting things. My carbs idle at different rates every time I drive it and the clutch is finally disengaging fully - needed for a 3 synchro box for 1st and reverse.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 6:11 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:33 pm
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Maybe don't have the butterflies properly centred??.. If you blip the throttle does the idle fall to the "standard" revs???

Back when we all had 3 synchro boxes it was standard procedure to pull the lever back against the second synchro and then push forward to first...

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 7:43 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2013 5:44 pm
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Location: Camden
1071 S wrote:
Maybe don't have the butterflies properly centred??.. If you blip the throttle does the idle fall to the "standard" revs???

Back when we all had 3 synchro boxes it was standard procedure to pull the lever back against the second synchro and then push forward to first...

Cheers, Ian


Thanks for that. Been doing that to start with and finally the clutch plate has worn just enough to clear the pressure plate and let 1st and reverse be selected and still have some freeplay for the throw-out bearing.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2019 8:54 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2015 7:01 am
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Location: South Australia
Attachment:
F50CE38B-56BE-4314-AF91-CFD80C63C9E4.jpeg


My Mini is not a Cooper S either, but an earlier photo shows the heat shield is on first. It has Perry Extractors and the heat shield must have cleared them previously so will revert back to heat shield then spacers.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2019 5:42 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2017 6:39 pm
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Location: Perth, WA
I take it your idle screws are taken all the way up?
Have you got gaskets between the heat shield and spacers and manifold? Could be another avenue for air ingress.
Is your manifold air tight? Mine has holes for all sorts of things... (PCV Valve? Throttle Cable Mount? Vacuum Take Off?)
Are both carbs balanced and sucking at the same flow rate?
Are the linkages bound up? You'd pick this up when balancing the carbs.

What do you consider as high idle? 1000RPM?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2019 8:02 pm 
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I hate seeing filters fitted before the Carburetor. Best immediately after the tank before the pump at the rear of the car. You want fuel filtered before it goes in the pump.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2019 8:29 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 8:38 pm
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I had tuning issues with my carbies, I had them reconditioned by a carbie place. Cost was $650. the carbies were off the car I had to send them away to get done ,After spending &8000. on the engine the car did not run well, a carbie guy tried to tune them using the colour method it did not work. We took the carbies off and found out they had the old needles one was bent also the butterflies were not fitted correctly, the little O ring seals were in the wrong place. I had to use the lathe to drill out one of the needles plus a few more stuff ups .Bought another 2 kits and paid another $600. I pick the car up tomorrow and I will be sending the damaged parts back to the recommended carbie shop with an attached letter. I can do most things on a car but sometimes you need to send carbies to a so called expert seems like I sent them to a dickhead who likes ripping people off and does not know how to fix carbies.
Probably has happened to others as the car still ran ok but not humming if you get my drift.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2019 9:31 am 
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998cc
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Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2013 5:44 pm
Posts: 1056
Location: Camden
It is more than annoying when so-called experts do substandard work.
You would be better doing some of these jobs yourself. Even if you made mistakes - you would learn from that.

Years ago, I had a carb "specialist" rebush a pair of HS4s only to split and fracture all the spindle bosses on the bodies, making them non-carburettors. He couldn't see anything wrong with his workmanship; had a fight to just get my money back- and had to agree not to tell others about it.
There is a topic on here about how to overhaul Su carburettors, including bushing them. Worth a go as the bushing is the only difficult operation - the rest is just "reversal of the dismantling".


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