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 Post subject: front wheel hub locking
PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2019 10:28 pm 
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848cc
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Hey ausmini

I have a front drum brake hub with new cv & wheel bearings and flange- When i tighten the hub nut to recommended 83N ( drum brakes) the wheel no longer rotates freely and gets really HOT.
I have tried removing the drum but it still locks up when torqued.

Any ideas?

Regards jahn


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2019 11:32 pm 
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Are they Timken bearings or the cheaper ones? Often the cheap bearing kits don't have the right width spacer, so they will end up being too tight or too loose.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2019 11:50 pm 
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They are the minispares ones- the ball bearing ones for drum brakes not roller style for discs.

cheers


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2019 11:56 pm 
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Do I just tighten up the hub nut till it feels like its starting to grab?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2019 6:04 am 
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I used the ball bearing type but had similar issues. I ended up later swapping to the Timken tapered ones as they are identical dimensions

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2019 9:41 am 
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Jahn,
If you want to use them, you need to add a shim between the bearings if no spacer between.
You cannot leave the nut loose, it must be torqued to 60 lb ft.

If swapping to tapered rollers, be aware non timken ones often have incorrect spacers and similar problems. Timken are usually fine.
See my write-up in the how to forum here.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2019 10:34 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
See my write-up in the how to forum here.

viewtopic.php?f=25&t=40640

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2019 11:22 am 
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Thanks guys

Looks like the hubs are coming back out.
Where would the shims go if the bearings have the extension piece that needs the spacer removed?
I don't understand- its like the bearings don't like to roll when torqued up?

Jahn


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2019 11:41 am 
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One other thing to check is that the bearings are assembled around the right way. The first set of ball bearings I bought had the outer races assembled backwards and they didn't work right when I torqued them up.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2019 11:59 am 
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If just the one flange is different? compare its internal dimensions to one that does not lock up?

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2019 5:48 pm 
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Its probably a silly question .. but you are using the correct torque units.. 83Nm is not much...

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2019 4:10 am 
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jahn wrote:
Thanks guys

Looks like the hubs are coming back out.
Where would the shims go if the bearings have the extension piece that needs the spacer removed?
I don't understand- its like the bearings don't like to roll when torqued up?


The 'spacer' bits on the bearings are too short. A shim between would fix it but what thickness would need to be checked by adding shims then torquing up to test.
Source of shims? No idea, they have to be 1.250" hole.
This bearing design was a backward step IMO.
At least the old design you could change spacer if needed.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2019 9:06 pm 
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848cc
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Hi, I am lucky in that I have a surface grinder. I always assemble wheel bearings in a dummy jig first, and regularly have to remove up to .005" off the front face of the wheel bearing cup, to in effect make a thicker spacer, or when there is a spacer, I find a thicker one
I prefer tapered rollers, as the ball bearings once fitted are very difficult to ascertain clearances.
cheers Lindsay Siebler

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