Hi,

Re-assembling my driveshafts / front hubs and would like some advice re the boot retaining tie please.
Initially, I used stainless steel zipties (like a plastic one, not the multi strand CV joint ones) on each end of the boot. The tie on the CV joint itself was difficult to get tight as the ziptie slackened off a bit when you released the end you tighten. I couldn't get the tie tight enough for it to compress the boot into the groove in the joint. I had the tie in line with the groove in the joint. It was fairly tight though and I couldn't move the rubber boot off the joint. However, when I assembled the hub, the raised part of the zip tie hit the inside of the hub in one spot. The zip tie on the drive shaft end is OK I reckon.
I then checked on this forum about that problem and found a few others have had the same issue and the solution was to use wire tie wire instead of the zip ties.

I've now done one joint using the wire tie wire and I'm checking how tight I need to twist the wire. I've done it moderately tight and the wire has now pushed the boot into the groove in the joint. The rubber itself is quite stiff but you can push it into the groove by hand with the round end of a spanner. After twisting, I bent the wire away from the direction of rotation and gently hammered it flat. Haven't re-assembled it yet to check if the twist still hits the hub but I reckon it is flatter than the zip tie. Want to check here first before I go any further.

The question I have is I have done the wire twist too tight? I mindful of the wire being too tight and cutting into the boot and ruining it.

Pics attached so you can see what I've done. This is the passenger side.

Cheers, Rocky

The very knowledgeable Mini man who rebuilt all the mechanical bits of my car used the same wire method to secure both ends of the CV boot. You can just see it in the following photos. Pulled just tight enough to hold the boot in the groove.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

I found these worked really well. There is a special cv banding tool that tightens them up

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Pretty sure that replicates the factory method. One of the guys in the club bought the tool (don't think it was too expensive). We are happy to contribute a nominal fee to offset his purchase price.

Its not the sort of thing you use every day...

IMHO the tie wire is a perfectly acceptable alternative.

Cheers, Ian

Thanks for the replies.
Looking at your's winnabey, I might have mine a bit too tight. I didn't put much pressure on the twist but it seems I could do with maybe a turn or so less.

Timmy and Ian - the bloke I got Minnie from is a retired mechanic and I know he's got one of those tools so that could be an alternative. He's had a bit on his plate lately so I haven't bothered him. The steel zip ties I used had a very flat bit that locks the tie in place which I reckon is about half the thickness of a normal plastic one. Even so, it still fouled against the hub as the tie didn't compress into the joint. The tool coupled with the right CV ties would no doubt get them tighter.

As as matter of interest, when I pulled the front end apart, the boots on both the joint and the yolk on the other end all had tie wire. I couldn't tell though how tight they were as the rubbers had all perished.

Cheers, Rocky

The cv banding tool I got was under $40, so cheap enough to buy and keep in the garage for next time
https://www.totaltools.com.au/banding-t ... yle-clamps

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I've been criticised for using 'fencing wire' on CV boots but it has worked well for many years.

This is a quick mock up to illustrate how I have the 2 wire strands separated and cross over where the twist is made.
Not sure if it makes much difference but thought it might spread the compression more evenly on the rubber boot.
I would tighten the twist a bit more than in the photo for final finish.

I use the strap bands without the tool. With careful use of both long nose and regular pliers you can get them tight.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.