I'm currently installing a new HIF44, and I'm wondering if a fuel pressure regulator is needed?

In terms of my setup, I have a generic low pressure electric fuel pump. I previously had twin hs4s with no regulator, and one of the carbys did leak but new float bowl seals fixed it.

The Filter King regulator, filter combo looks awesome but wow the price. Aeroflow have a regulator for ~$100, otherwise there is a very similar regulator on ebay for ~$50 or the cheapest ebay regulator is ~$30.

Not looking to solve a problem that may not exist.. but also want to do things right the first time.

See if you can borrow an in-line fuel pressure gauge to see what the pressure is now. That’d give you an idea if you need a regulator (and also to set the regulator to the right setting).

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What model is the pump?

It is best & cheapest to just buy a suitable pump. Those regulators probably aren't designed for such low pressures anyway. They also introduce many more points of failure.

Video which explains issues with regulators: https://youtu.be/DH39F6EvHWU?si=qLP6FewDtWY7U_ys

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1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

You will only need one if the fuel pressure is defeating the float valve/needle.
Years ago, I like you wondered if the pressure would be too high and I installed the type in your last picture (stormcar, although mine had a different name). When I tidied up the boot area I decided to remove the regulator and have run with no problems for 15 or so years without one.
So they do work but probably not needed, 4 psi will still be fine.

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Cheers Dave.

not needed, if you do, then you're using the wrong pump

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I'm 99% sure its a Hardi 13312, as sold by Minispares (see links below).

I've been able to start the car without the carb overfuelling.. so everything seems to be good. (now I'm needing to sort out the AFR install and fix any exhaust leaks)

Once again, really appreciate all the input

https://www.minispares.com/product/Clas ... CBack%20to

https://www.hardi-automotive.com/wp-con ... B13312.pdf

Originally they had different pumps for engine bay vs rear installations. The rear ones had higher pressure I believe. If the replacement follows the original then you might be better putting it on the rear subframe

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1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

oh dear... I don't know how much you've driven the car, but I think fuel pump will make you very, very, very angry

There are two types of SU fuel pump - a "pusher" and a "puller"

Morris Minors had the "puller", which was mounted on the firewall like you have it. The pump is designed to create suction which pulls the fuel from the tank, and discharges it to the carb. They need to be mounted above the carburettor so the fuel doesn't create head pressure against the suction the pump is trying to create on the other side of it. They caused no end of trouble in Australian conditions with fuel vapourising and causing an air lock - Morris Minors are much cooler under the bonnet than Minis, especially where that pump is mounted. It's directly above the exhaust, the very hot air coming up from the exhaust will vapourise the fuel every time you switch the engine off. You'll go to start it and it won't be able to pull any fuel.

As 68+86 said, Minis had them mounted on the rear subframe, and used the "pusher" type, the inlet to the pump is gravity fed, and the pump pushes it to the carb - much much better system

If that pump is a puller, throw it away and get a little Facet pump to put on the rear subframe

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Those pumps are sold by minispares etc so I'd guess they are designed to be a "pusher". They aren't designed specifically for minis so who knows but how many cars had "puller" pumps.

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1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

There is your problem YOU HAVE THE WRONG PUMP ! They have the wrong pressure and the wrong volume they are sold incorrectly, you need to buy a genuine SU AUF 214 EN and mount it on the rear subframe as per cooper S , I will not bore you with the story of how I know .

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That's why it's good to be.............ME

I've driven it for about 5,000kms since owning it, which was about 1.5 years ago. No issues with vapor lock, but I've had a few people mention to put it at the back in subframe. So it seems like it would be a wise move in any case.

I've looked at the wiring diagram, and the +ve feed for the pump is a white wire. I can see in the engine bay theres a white wire coming from the cabin, but there's no white wire where the loom goes into the firewall and up the a pillar. Also cant see a white wire in the boot where the loom comes out.

Wondering what the best way would be to run the wire from the ignition switch to the boot?

I don't know what your mini is, but the electric fuel pump was only present on 850, Cooper, Cooper S and Clubman GT - the others all had mechanical fuel pumps, so it's likely that the white wire was never there. The best place to pick it up is on the fuse box, white wires signify unfused ignition, so there's a white wire coming from the ignition switch to the fuse box, then a fuse, then green wires (fused ignition) coming off it to the wiper motor, indicators, horn etc. My fuel pump is on the fused side, so I have a white wire on the same side as the greens

Easiest way to run a wire to the back is through the cabin - across the firewall through the speedo hole, down the passenger side footwell, under the crossmember, through the back seat and through the rear firewall - then down through the boot floor to the fuel pump... or something like that

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

For interest, when I fitted an SU electric pump to my mini K some years ago, I discovered the white wire for the electric fuel pump was already in the harness, from the fuse box up to the chassis/body junction, near the wiper motor, although there wasn't a wire from the junction to the rear.
The hood lining was out of my car at the time so it was easy to feed a wire to the rear pump along the cant rail.
My photo is included to show what the body/chassis junction looks like.

Just to close the loop on this thread - I've relocated the fuel pump to the rear subframe.

I ran a white wire from the fuse box, through the back of the binnacle, along the floor, up under the back seat, to the boot and down the same hole as the tank breather tubes. Also ran a earthing wire up into the boot and spliced it into the fuel gauge senders earth.

Added a filter before the pump and also in the fuel line in engine bay to be sure .. to be sure.

Haven't driven the Mini to test yet... but it primes and the engine starts, so assume its all ok.

Appreciate all the suggestions and comments

noice

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?