drmini in aust wrote:
Check the headlamp wire connectors behind the grille. Blue/red is low beam. It might have pulled out.
Thanks Kev - checked and all OK
OGW1152 wrote:
Hey Timmy
I had no lights on one of my cars. Washed out the toggle switch on the dash with electronic cleaner.
Fixed it up good.. Maybe worth a try
Regards Glen
Thanks Glen, I've checked the switch and I'm getting a nice constant 12V
Scoop wrote:
Don't forget to get your globes!
Globes have been checked too and all OK
Willkog89 wrote:
I had similar issues with lights working intermittently (able to be switched on, but sometimes not coming on), and having bad earth (one headlight very dim).
My problem was the switch under the floor. All the terminals were thoroughly corroded from water and and also been melting the sound proofing and shorting - burnt crisps all around it.
I would definitely check the floor dipper switch, even just to make sure everything is happy there, as mine seemed rather innocent.
Thanks Willko. I pulled the dip switch off the floor and the middle (signal from the switch) terminal was a bit crispy but otherwise OK.
Oscar wrote:
Power goes from the dash switch to the dip switch and then to the selected output.
As your highs are working power is reaching the dipper so the dash switch will be ok.
I've checked the dipper switch and it's working OK
phillb wrote:
I’d say the switch or a loose connection somewhere to the Lo beams. Time to break out the test light.
Heres the result from the multimeter:
12V to dash switch
12V to dip switch
12V to low beam from dip switch
12V when switched to high beam
0V at the double bullet connector near the grille
Low beam lights up if I use the parking light bullet for power
So quite possibly the worst possible conclusion - a break or burn somewhere between the dip switch and the grille. I think this means it's finally time to add the relay I bought a few years ago and run some new wiring.