What is the original fuel pump for the Clubman GT is it still an SU electric fuel pump? Can I have two fuel pumps and just run them independent by a switch. The other day I got stuck on the road then after a few minutes the pump worked again.

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1973 Clubman GT - YG2S8 1637

Yes SU. You can replace the old points set up with electronic set up.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

This is the old pump on the left and new electronic equivalent on the right. Looks almost exactly the same, and even has the outlet for the breather tube, like the original.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

I have read of two pumps being run as you want but it seems like overkill to me and more possible leak points. I would just take a spare pump, I keep forgetting I need to put my spare one in my mini.

It would be nice to not have to reach under and change a pump out especially with a hot exhaust and fuel going everywhere. I just think for the chance of it happening I will put up with it. I have put Deutsch connectors on my pump and the spare (both Fuel Flow ecco 1LM12) so that if it fails there is one less thing to sort out.

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1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

I remember back in the sixties when I had a Morris 1100 and my car stopped. I called the NRMA and the guy got out his special tool (a hammer), I joined and many years latter I got some free shares.

I digress.

He hit the electric pump a couple of times and I was on my way. That lasted for years. Me being a teenager never thought of changing the points.

Back in 64 I had a 1961 850. They has an SU PD pump which was not serviceable. Once or twice a day it would stop. I became practised at giving the subframe a swift kick where it worked. Not for long.
Replaced by the usual Cooper 997 pump auf200? Or something.
These days I run a Facet square one on a square centre exhaust mount. They go forever almost.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I also used to do the hammer fix but this time I did not have a hammer so I used a folding chair. I would not like to change pumps at the side of the road.

My pump is not an SU I am sure it is not original it looks square I doubt it is a facet. When it does this is it a sign that it will quit soon?

Any picture of how the original SU is mounted?

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1973 Clubman GT - YG2S8 1637

If it's a square one check all electrical connections. Not much else stops them in my experience.
If it's wired through a fuse check its contacts too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I run two pumps in my rally Mini and that has saved me a couple of times, being able to switch between pumps mid stage....might seem like an extra lot of work and extra things to go wrong but done properly it can be a savior

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1970 Mk2 Cooper S under restoration

Nice anti roll bar = more pictures please.

When I was a cash poor apprentice, I had a piece of fence wire between the SU fuel pump and the muffler. When the SU would stop, the engine would cough and splutter, the muffler would shake and that would restart the pump.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Very ingenious

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1973 Clubman GT - YG2S8 1637

It was passed down to me in the 90s by a very elder gent, these pumps do have a long history of disappointing drivers.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

That's why I bought a new electronic su pump for my resto

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1970 Mk2 Cooper S under restoration