My Mini is now running as it should but on closer inspection I decided to put my fingers under the dash and feel the ignition and light switch wiring. The wiring was getting hot. Is that a problem? How can I track down the reason??

It should not be hot.

I would start with measuring how much current is going thru it using a clamp meter which can measure DC. I assume you don't have one though.

Is it just one wire getting hot or is it a certain connection?

If the heat is caused by a high resistance (poor) connection then what you can do is use a multimeter at two different points to see if there is voltage drop between them. If there is significant voltage drop then between those two points somewhere is a poor or undersized connection or wire. 1V is a lot when dealing with 12V.

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1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

The ignition switches are relatively light (and not to mention old), and generate heat through poor contacts. The main contacts are internal, but clean up the external spade connections as well to make sure its working its best.

Warm might be ok given the age, but hot is bad. This is often made worse by added accessories on the circuit (radios, amps etc), so watch those as well.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Could my problem with the light switch getting hot be, running halogen globes in the head lights?

Yes if they are even slightly higher wattage (likely). The wiring and switching was only designed for the original lights. Anything higher wattage results is melted wiring or actually poorer lighting due to voltage drop.

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1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

My halogen head light is 130/90W

Are you running them through a relay/pair of relays for hi/low beam ? You are probably drawing twice the current = warm wires, also if you are using a column hi/low, the points in the stalk won't like it long term either.

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1970 Mk2 Cooper S under restoration

No relay, so I think I will try to find lower wattage halogens.

GLB472 should do it as I am not into wiring and relays.

Of course the lights have to be turned on to draw current so if your wiring is getting hot before you switch the lights on then it is something else causing the heat.
If the wiring / switches only get hot when the lights are on then the globes could be the problem or some other fault.
The standard lamps were 60/45 or 60/50 etc so halogens of that wattage sbould ease the problem.
A relay is a relatively cheap and resonably easy fix which will save the switches and stalks even if you have the lower wattage lamps. If you want to look at a relay let me know and I will post instructions.

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Cheers Dave.

Steam A relay is a relatively cheap and resonably easy fix which will save the switches and stalks even if you have the lower wattage lamps. If you want to look at a relay let me know and I will post instructions.

That would be handy for this non electrician.

There are numerous "H4 relay kits" available online. They don't need any modification of the stock wiring loom.

All you need is:
12V power (from a good source like the starter relay)
Ground
Remove the existing headlight plugs from the headlight bulbs
Add the new male plug into the existing loom plug (this uses the old loom as the switching signal)
Plug the new female plugs onto the headlight bulbs
Done!

Example
https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/prod ... /ZPN-15173

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That is the easiest way. I was going to suggest a different method but that is easier for anyone electrically challenged.
The H4 relay kits are even cheaper on ebay, just check whether you need to order relays or if they are included.

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Cheers Dave.

I've been internetting and think I have worked out how to check AMPS using my multimeter. Each lamp is putting out individually 4.5 amps on either low or high beam. I guess this needs to be added together, that is when high beam is on, you are using (4 x 4.5 amps) 18 AMPs. Am I on the right track??

The low beam filament should turn off when the high beam is turned on

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