Sorry to hear your pain continues. On Page 7 or 8 of this thread - Simon suggested taking the dip switch out of the equation ? (At that time , I think the stalk type dipper was being envisioned but the floor type could still be the culprit (new or not ) Now with your separate headlight loom, this would be another good time to isolate and exclude another possible source.
I am not sure if the floor switch uses the bolts to earth - but I would create a new 'GOOD' earth just for back to back tests. If I missed you already checking this out - sorry)

I found this:
https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/t ... p-melting/
and this:
http://www.advanceautowire.com/

Great find DavidE.

Looks like I am going down the relay route.

Cooperess
Try LED bulbs first, to reduce the current (and heating) in the wiring and switch.
The relays are the ultimate solution, but you are likely to open up more cans of (hot) worms unless you get it 100% correct.
Dave2

On my cars the dipper switches are all secured by self-tapping screws.

Pretty sure the floor dipswitch is just an on/off switch with a high beam headlight wire in and one out, so earthing of the switch body isn't needed.

_________________
ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

I find this wiring diagram easier to follow at a glance, ie dipper switch #51. Hope it helps. Well used over the years....

_________________
1970 Mk2 Cooper S under restoration

But is effected by virtue of the fasteners used to hold it in position.

Uuuummm no David, switches don't have earths ... the electrical circuit is not effected ..nor affected.. by the mechanical fasteners (screws)... Only things that consume power have earths.

And... it's not an on/off switch either. There are (usually:) 3 terminals and 4 output wires. Power comes in from the light switch and is "switched" to either the terminal connected to the low beam circuit or the other terminal that has a wire running to the high beams (there's a downstream splitter) and one going to the high beam indicator on the dash.

Cheers, Ian

You have misunderstood, Ian, what I wrote. I was saying is that the dip switch body is connected to the car's body by the fasteners.

Hi David, I thought I read what I thought you said...... (I took "... is effected....." to mean that the dip switch earth is actioned by the switch retains screws...)

And I shouldn't have been so unequivocal.... some circuits are indeed earth switched (not a good idea IMHO). However, even in these cases I would argue that the "switch" isn't actually earthed (just the wire coming into it from the switched device...)

Time for a coffee this week?

Cheers, Ian

ausdino Excellent contibution (different wiring diagrams), I think this will help me alot.

You are correct of course. In my haste to point out the switch doesn't need earthing I overlooked that detail.



High beam must have been used a lot by Police or the later owner as the plastic connector is slightly melted.

_________________
ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

And/Or try alternate switches. You have taken the wiring harness out of the equation, but i notice you say dip & toggle are new… new doesn’t always mean good these days so could be part of the issue? Worth checking before adding relays.

_________________
1966 Mini Deluxe - “Gabby” 34 years under restoration and counting...
1970 MGBGT
1959 MGA

I promised my self I would no longer get involved with this thread as I don't think anyone has any idea as to what is going actually on...... Too many red herrings...

Buuut ... I started reading again and got sucked in... This is quote from way back when...





Are you saying that only low beams (ignoring side light etc) are connected to the light switch? With high beam being powered by the stalk .... which is connected to what? ... the ignition switch? or some other powered point??

How many dip switches do you have?

How do you turn the low beams off?

How's the trip to the auto elec going?

By the way.. you don't need any fancy LEDs to test Dave's theories. Just get some old fashioned low power H4 bulbs from the local servo...

And relays are really dead simple compared to what you've been up to so far... (see Timmy's post of the first page)

Cheers, Ian