Hi All,

I thought this might be a handy reference if you are looking to buy a HIF44 for your (non-turbo) mini. As the HIF carb was fitted to many different cars in the 80's and 90's there will be some that are more suitable to minis than others

First up - make sure it's a HIF44. If you see a HIF38 the most obvious difference is the diameter of the throat is smaller (38mm instead of 44mm) but the easiest visual check is the face that meets the air filter. The HIF44 is a bit more square on the sides and top edge
https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/t ... cs-please/


The other similar carb is the HIF6, which was an earlier version of the HIF44. It can be identified by the HS-type dashpot, spring and damper rod on top. The HIF44 carb uses a different dashpot and piston with a ball bearing, spring and damper rod


The ball bearing race means the dashpot has lower friction, and can react quicker to throttle inputs. It's worth checking all the ball bearings are in place and haven't escaped - the plastic race is normally captive on the dashpot lid, so if it comes out there might be an issue.


The bigger diameter HIF44 type spring


Next up to check externally is what side the throttle and choke mechanism is on, and the type of arms you have. The mini throttle arm has a cam type, which gives more sensitive input at the start of the pedal stroke, then opens quicker the further you press the pedal. The usual mini setup has the accelerator and choke cables on the LH side of the car. You can definitely use carbs with different configurations, but if you can find a mini type carb it will be a bit easier to start with. There should be a concentric return spring on either side of the throttle shaft too

I'd also avoid any HIF carb with an auto choke mechanism


The special throttle cable locates in the abutment plate, and then curves around the cam to the bottom. The outer choke cable is clipped to the abutment plate and then bolted to the choke arm (not shown in the photo below)


On the other side of the carb will be the various ports:
Fuel inlet - yellow
Fuel bowl overflow/vent - red
Crankcase breather - blue
Vacuum advance - green
Idle mix screw - purple arrow


If you want to fit it to a mini for performance use there are a couple more things that are desirable to have, and which are handy to have in advance. Plain throttle blade with no poppet valve


Vacuum advance port pre throttle blade (on the air filter side of the throttle blade)


The spacer and abutment plate to suit a mini


Initial setup video https://youtu.be/prX1NXUfljM?si=dA0hQuJoAJaTBpHa

Helpful part numbers:
Throttle lever JZX 1605
Choke lever JZX 1609
Throttle cable SBB10099
Abutment plate CAM4942
Choke cable clip CZK6491
Throttle and choke trunnion AUE34

Springs: available in red, yellow, blue
Needles: all HIF44 carbs use the larger 0.100" diameter needles, so you must use a needle that starts with "B" - eg BCE

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As an owner of both types, the 44 is judged to be too big for a small bore engine, whereas it is just right for a 1275. I was able to determine that my 38 came off the same size engine as I was wanting to use it on.
BTW the HIF 6 is the imperial sized 1-3/4" carby. The HIF44 is, well, 44mm, from the later metric products and is slightly smaller.

Great post, thanks

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Hi Timmy, great post - thankyou.

Great post Timmy!

What spacer is used for an Aussie round nose (in my case a Mini K)? Cole from Classic Mini DIY mentioned a thin spacer and adjustable engine steady are required for a HIF44 to fit a Mk1

I can't be sure on every manifold and combination available, but on my 1100 engine with the factory engine steady it all fits OK. I've got a Metro type manifold, original spacer, offset KN air filter. I also have a 90 degree speedo adapter left over from the Dellorto carb, so this may help too (I haven't tried fitting the carb with a standard speedo cable).

A 1275 engine block is about 1/4" taller than a small bore block, so I think this should add a little extra room? If you have the original remote shift on your K there might not be much you can tilt the engine forward before the remote housing hits the tunnel

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Thanks Timmy - appreciate your help and I think you're right, the manifold could make a difference in available space.

Yes I've got a remote gear box and I was thinking trying to tilt the engine would only have marginal gains if any.