Having had a bit of a struggle removing a rear displacer unit needing a hose renewal, would it be easier in the long run to remove the rear brake plate to make refitting less of a struggle?. Maybe with the parts all clean and lubricated this might not be necessary. Any comments gratefully received.

Undo the radial arm nut and mounting bracket, that will allow you to pull the whole radius arm and brake assembly away from the displacer and give you more room to get it out.
You will have to loosen your handbrake cable on that side to alloe sideways movement

Thanks for that advice glenndunn. I will certainly do that when refitting.

Never tried "glenndunn's" method. Sounds like it will work.
Are you having problems removing the strut & ball joint from the displacer, or removing the displacer itself? The spring-loaded pin joining the strut to the displacer is hard to compress enough to clear the displacer when coming out or going back in. Removing the radius arm bracket should help this.
The displacer tends to rust in position and needs some gentle hits with a hammer while trying to turn it, maybe with an old fan belt held with a pair of vice grips.
As you suggest, I have found it a bit easier putting the clean parts back in.
Use lots of anti-seize, for the next time.

When removing the radius arm pivot nut and bracket, do you:
1. remove the inner pivot pin nut and remove the pivot pin too?
2. disconnect the helper spring from the backing plate?

Bill B no take the nut and large washer off the pin right in front of the subframe mount, and i forgot to say yes you have to undo the helper spring from inside the boot

is it free of the locating lugs?

they're usually easy to take out - once you remove the little rubber buffer that stops the radius arm from drooping - a 1/2" spanner up between the subframe and the rear of the floor

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Some v. useful tips there, guys, thanks all.