i sprayed it with acrylic ( not 2 pak), and the last coat was mainly thinner, which blended the paint really well, but took some shine off.

i tried buffing without cutting it back with paper and it wasn't the mirror look i was hoping for, so now i am tryint to achieve that with fine paper and buffing compound....

I see... Gee sounds like you need a something better than a hand done job, like using an random orbital buffer, around $40 from Supercheap Auto. Use stronger cutting compound like T-Cut or some other specialist strong abrasive compound. Use a test panel before doing it on the bonnet and I'd start at the back of the car and work your way forwards when you get more confident with the buffer.

I've never used one myself but I've seen it being done and it looks kind of easy, but I've read that it's easy to burn your paint!

You won't be able to get show room shine from 2000 or 4000 grit! that will just create more of a headache, a good, least drastic way is to buff using cutting compound IMO...

Bobtel would be able to answer this better than I, he is a bit of a pro-hart with paint.

If I were you I'd read more before attempting anything. Last thing you want is to have to redo the paintjob!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

don't bother with one of those supercheap buffers. the more expensive brand name ones might be better but the supercheap version is supercrap. i bought one a while ago and they are completely useless

i got the better one (there were two different models) and got better quality buffing pads (they come with fake lambswool) and it was absolutely pathetic

i spent over an hour trying to polish the roof of the mini and it didn't have enough guts to buff it off. it just left crappy swirl marks ALL over the roof, while im no pro i have polished plenty of cars and i can do a WAY better job by hand........

lol...yea the Makita buffer is $400ish..... it has variable speed, which is good is you want low RPM for corners and creases....

I am thinking a hand job (no pun intended) is better than the machine. I have seen serious swirl come from machine buffers.

serious swirl is an understatement! you should see my roof i was serisouly pissed off considering i asked the dude at the shop all about that sorta stuff before i bought it....freakin supercheap is such a crap shop

those guys don't know what there are on about half the time....

the Auto One guy told me all about buffing my car yesterday...yea right...none of his advice worked!!

I am going to a panel shop for more advice this arvo.

Well there you go! sorry for the supercrap advice...

Agreed, hand job is better but it's alot of work! 3 step Mothers took me just over 4 hours to do (properly) and that was not a serious job (as in my paint is shiny to start with). And I was buggered by the end of it...

Results were better than good though

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Where abouts do u get your waxing and polishing equipment from?

I use autoglym on my car does it contaion wax or is that a seperate thing that i apply after i have cut back and applyed the resin posish?

JAM love how your car is turning out looks great. keep up the good work.

For scratch removal I have had good success with Meguiars Scratch X followed by Gold Class polish. I had to remove a scratch from my door on the weekend and this combination worked a treat. It also got rid of a huge scratch from my bonnet caused by and enthusiastic Magpie and some speaker cable from my garage....

If you use the wool pad only you are bound to get swirl marks. My advice is use the wool pad for cutting followed by a foam pad for the final result, you should see less swirls that way. To go the whole hog use the wool for cutting, followed by a yellow foam pad and then a grey (that's what my boss does at work - and he gets cars looking bloody good).

Yeah don't bother with a SuperCrap buffer if you're more than half serious. If you do use a proper one, make sure the rpm goes low enough. We are using a Dewalt buffer at the moment (the makita broke) and it goes heaps too fast (meant for alloy polishing).

Thanks to all for the input and advice, it's all taken on board.

Today I went to the place I trust the most. It's the place I buy my paint and associated gear from......Hunter Holden in Ryde. The guys there are more than happy to help.

Their advice was a combo of what I was doing and what has been suggested in this thread. This is what I did this afternoon:

I worked on my bootlid and 1 door, and cut back with 1000, 1500 and finally 2000. I applied by hand with a foam pad some cutting compound, and buffed off with the buffer. Hand applied the Auto Glym Super Resin Polish with another pad, buffed off with the buffer. Hand applied some Meguiars Yellow Wax and hand buffed off - result.....mirror finish with no swirl!!

This weekend I will do the rest of the car. Thanks again for the input.....

Hi J A M, which buffer did you use?, (or was it the Makita one you spoke of earlier), I am new to spray painting,(I've done small areas on my mini, so far, under rear bumper , underside of bonnet etc, and the results are getting better all the time) , and a buffer is the next item I need to buy,Bunnings have sander polishers for about $100, and mitre 10 have a GMC sander,polisher,grinder for about $100 as well, which should I buy?, thanks for any help . Tony

Tony,

I have some good quality power tools in my workshop. One of which is an Atlas Copco Variable Speed Drill. The guys in the panel shop at Hunter Holden said as long as it is variable speed, it will be fine. I had a sanding disc attachment for the drill, onto which I put a genuine wool buffing pad. The drill also has a side handle attachment, which is very necessary for controlling the drill. Don't bother using a drill if you don't have the handle, as you wont have total control of it and you can slip and burn the duco very easily.

If you are going to buy a buffer, the recommended one was similar to a angle grinder, with side handle and variable speed. Apparently the ones with two side handles that you hold with both hands are pretty gutless and won't provide enough heat when buffing. I was told it's the heat that the buffing pad generates that produces the shine....that's why I wasn't getting good results buffing by hand......

Anton.

EDIT:- I have seen the GMC one you are talking about. If that has variable speed then I would grab that one. If it has a trigger that you can ease on, and the RPM increases as you do, that is the ultimate for control. I know the really expensive Makita one has this......

Hi Anton, thanks for the advice,I love that colour, Tony

mmmmm....shiny!!



I sanded with 1500 then 2000, using soapy water. Then I used BUFFING COMPOUND and the buffer to bring out the shine. This left swirl marks, so I used KITTEN POLISH to remove these - by hand. Then I applied AUTOGLYM Super Resin Polish - by hand. I have some Meguiars Wax to apply, but as yet I haven't applied it.

Hope someone can use this info. It has been trial and error to figure this out. This applies to ACRYLIC ONLY.

That is a damn nasty result! I love the colour.
MMmmm mmmmm.