Hi guys,

More hours spent under the car and inside the bonnet has revealed several both surprising and dissapointing things. The last owner has done an injustice to my baby! wrong grease, wrong nuts, missing bolts you name it... surprising that it runs the way it does! Well i guess it could be worse...

Anyway I was fiddling around with the clutch actuator arm thingy trying to adjust the pedal travel to realise that there is no stop nut at the bottom of the actuator arms!



The big nut labelled B is missing! So is the lock nut to the left of it!

The adjuster nut labelled A is out all the way, I found this out when i tried to unscrewed it and it dropped to the garage floor! Even though the adjuster is all the way out, when the clutch is engaged all the way (arm goes left) there is still a whopping 5mm gap between the arm and the adjuster nut!

So my questions:

1) is there any adverse effects of not having this stop nut? what are the long term effects? does it wear out any other parts because it's not there etc?
2) If i replace this stop nut and adjust it correctly according to the manual, will the arm move closer to the adjuster nut? if not what parts have worn and need replacing to get it back to the manual's clearance of just over 1mm?

Thanks!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Early Minis didn't have these 2 nuts anyway, or the thread even.
They are purely an overtravel stop.
They are only there to stop you putting too much pressure on the crank's thrust bearings if you pump the clutch several times. No other reason.
Lots of race Minis don't use them (saves weight...)!

Buy a couple when you see some, but I ran my first Mini for years without them.
With a 1098 diaphragm you are pretty safe.

<edit> whether these nuts are there or not will not affect arm position or adjustment `A'.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Big Kev!

Raced is the key word as I think my car was raced at one stage of it's life... hence missing bolt?

Well ok this problem is bigger... what has worn on my clutch mechanism to throw out the gap to that much??? ball end of the actuator arm? should I start to worry now?

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

One more question, Do i need to check for wear on the actual pedal itself where the master cylinder clevis pin sits before changing the clevis pin to reduce play in the clutch pedal? If the wear is more than just the actual clevis pin and I change to a new clevis pin that you'll obviously still have some play in the pedal right?

So is the answer to install a slightly larger clevis pin? if the mount on the pedal is oval then I need a new pedal to fix this problem right? Should I just pull the pedal mechanism out and examine everything before I buy parts?

cheers

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Usual causes are:
1. Wear of the ball on bottom of arm
2. bending of arm at bottom
3. Wear in throwout plunger
4. wear in clevis pin and arm
5. Flywheel mounted further onto crank as a result of previous rebuilds- lapping of tapers (not much you can do about this one).

Note clutch wear does not cause this- it moves the diaphragm back towards the clutch arm, reducing the problem..

I would buy a new arm and clevis pin to start with.
Look at the top pin (on slave cyl pushrod) - maybe replace that while you're at it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ayayay! The more I dig the more problems I find!

OK i will check out a new arm... once I FIX THOSE DAMN POT JOINTS!!! *Insert rude words and loud profanity here*

I will go buy yet another ball joint splitter from a mini place and hope this one works! Too affraid to bash the crap out of the ball joints with the BFH...

I just can't wait to drive her again! geez she'll be a different car once she comes off the stands and the chocks are out!!! (Least I hope!)

And to think I only wanted to fix her pot joints! now the clutch will be fixed, fuel sender fixed, gear selector all tightly bolted and greased, steering rack rebooted and oiled, carb all serviced, chocke cable nice and lubricated (was tight before)... list goes on!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

What ball joint splitter have you got now? Is it the scissor type one with a bolt in the back? I've found them the best. If you buy one, try to get US or UK made, not a cheese one from PR of C..

Back when you were but a wee lad, we used to rap the side of the arm (at the end) with a BFH, while uttering loud profanities and incantations. No pullers. Worked for us then...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well I have been down in the cold garage for 2 weeks with a BFH of all sorts shouting loud profanities and hammering away and only managed 2 tie rod ball joints and 1 left side top ball joint! 3 more to go! at this rate it'll be late august before I get to these &%$#@ pot joints!!

Which one should I get?? the scissor type or the one with a bolt? I had the one with a bolt and it bent!!! courtesy of PR of C!

Should I look for the one that is similar to the one the Leyland Manual? (2 hook lever with a bolt on the end...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I think me El Crappo one is not the right type of ball joint splitter... it looks rather dodgey...

Should I get one like this:
http://www.minimania.com/web/AddedFrom/ ... Detail.cfm

my one looks completely different

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

YES that's the one. Like I said, watch where it's made. Mine a Sykes Pickavant, made in UK...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Will check the make when I buy. Does $29 sound too cheap to be a UK/USA made ball joint splitter? that's how much I got quoted for from Padstow mini car clinic...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

For $29 from Padstow Pirates, it's probably a PR of C or PR of T special...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

bugga...

I'll call around tommorrow to see if I can get a Snap On equivalent

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K