im totally lost in the technical rebuilding of a motor so ive got some questions to ask u guys, seeing as u all know what the hell seems to go on inside a mini engine.

i wanna build my standard 1100 to whatever, something like a 1310 would be nice...here are some queeries to get me started...

1) what size should i got to?? eg 1310, 1380 or are these too far from an 1100 and make my engine totally crap itself in the first day of driving?

2) when purchasing pistons, what size should i get in relation to the first question and are they all the same, in varying brands, places i get them from?

3) when i go to bore out my engine how much do i need to bore it out in relation to the answer of question 2.

4) ive heard of domed pistons, which increase/decrease compression ratios.....what do i need?

5) i also wanna do the unleaded conversion, what do i need to do here and what do i need to purchase?

6) Cam, what cam, what size?? (i dont want is to idle like a rotor but a nice grunt would be nice....also the power increase too).

7) anything else i should be modifying while the engine is in pieces?

after all this, how much power increase should i expect from a standard 1100??

My budget is between $1000-$2000, and am doing most the labour myself so should save me in this category...any ideas price wise of what i wanna do?

If his falls through, im pretty sure i will go and do the honda b16a conversion....i know, i know it is a lot of $$$ but if i wont be happy with the 1100 build, i WILL go all the way....i just dont wanna yet cause ive already built a turbo honda last year....a lot easier cause most of the stuff was bolt ons and NO internal work was needed....

Thanks heaps for your help if u got any answers, just post here.

you'd need a 1275 block to go to the sizes you've mentioned........i tihnk an 1100 will go to about 1220 with hillman imp pistons??? (doc?)

the rest i cant really help you with...sorry mate

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2) This question actually relies on question 3 which relies on question 1..........you should really be getting pistons to suit your bore size, not getting a bore size to suit your pistons. Id get the rebore done first, then choose the pistons to suit.

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[Maverick] 1971 Mini K

i wouldnt mind goin for a 1275 block but then again, it proly be hard to find one as il prly be getting a 1275 head on.....also dont wanna be hassled with enigne numbers etc when i go to get my blue slip.

then how much should i bore it out to if i wanna go to a 1220??

i dont know the terminology but there has got to be a size the cylinder must go to to fit a certain type of piston right?

a good idea is that you should also say where you are coz that might help with suggestions

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
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forever chasing clearer skies...

If you don't want the hassle of changing engine numbers, I'd get some +.060" pistons and bore your 1100 block to suit. That will give around 1152cc.
Put a decent head on it- a 12G295 (998 Cooper), or a 12G202 (1098) head well ported with big valves and Cooper S springs.
Add a decent cam (around 270* duration), an LCB exhaust, and some better carb(s) and it'll go!

You don't bore the block first- you need to get bore size checked, (may have been bored already) then go up by at least .020" in piston size. Engine is bored to suit the pistons you get, to give correct running clearance.
Oversize pistons are available in +.020", .040", and .060" sizes.
If you want to be able to bore the block again, later, go to .040" pistons (1132cc).
Then again, 998 & 1098 blocks are a dime a dozen now....

Yes, a 1098 can (just) be bored to 68.0mm for Imp pistons, but..
1. These pistons are getting bloody hard to get in Oz.
2. The Imp piston circlips break up in a 1098 if you rev it hard- so fit PTFE (teflon) buttons instead..
3. No guarantee the block will bore that far successfully without hitting oilways. I've scrapped one or 2 over the years doing this..
4. Block needs decking around .140" to use these pistons.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

im in sydney....thanks for the right up dr mini....

any ideas on who to take it to for boring??

Gday mate,

I'm selling a fully recoed 12g295 Cooper 998 head (as Dr Mini) suggested. I have only just had the head fully recoed, with unleaded valve inserts set in, head refaced and shaved (to bring the compression up to the correct amount for a standard 998/1098 engine). Also has brand new valve guides all around, and would be perfect for your engine rebuild

I initially paid $200 for the head, and have just spent $500 recoing it, and it hasnt even been bolted to an engine since the reco (I have abandoned any plans to rebuild a mini engine).

Since the 295 heads are rare and I searche dhigh and low to find it, I dont want to lose too much on my investment, but would consider around $600 for the head if you are interested. I am in Melbourne so depending on where you are, postage might be around $20 or so.

Sorry to be plugging my sale item but I'm sure it would be ideal for you!

Cheers,

Steve

Any engine reco shop really. Find one that wants your business- last time I got one done (a place in Mt Druitt) it took him 3 weeks to get his finger out...
He did a nice job though- our Clubbie uses NO oil between changes!
Yeah OK, so it's off the road at the mo- but last year it wasn't..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

anybody know of any places closer to sydney city?? around sort of inner south west like hurstville/bankstown/or even sutherland area that do a good job??

i just had a look and i already got a 12g202 head.... is it worth the change in head or just get bigger valves and cooper s springs in the 12g202???

if i get the 295 stephenianjames is selling above, what mods would i need to do to get the head to bolt straight on, or is it a straight bolt on without having to do any modsor grinding??

Mate, the 295 head will bolt on and I am sure it sounds ok. I recently did up an 1100 for my girlfriends auto that put out 95bhp. The down side of this is I spent about 4k to do it and I too do all my own work. At the end of the day think carefully about what you are going to spend all your money on. If you have done big hp cars before the 1100 will crap you after about 2 weeks. My girlfriend didnt even get to drive her car, before deciding the 1100 wasnt enough and I had to do the whole job again on a bigger 1275 motor (changing her mind is a womans perogitive apparently). If you do go the 1275 route your power for your dollar is significantly improved, although for rego you need to fit Disc brakes. Changing the engine number is nothing in NSW. You take it for your inspection and they look at the number, then you fill in a form at the DOT....nuff said. I just want to warn you that the 1100 is a long stroke version of the 998 motor. In other words to get it to sing you need to balance and lighten everything and this costs bills. If you want reasonable power with it go 60thou over right from the start, regrind your crank and have the block line bored. Make sure it is sent for chemmy cleaning before you put it back together. Keep you eyes open for a big head. (a 202 style casting is usually cheaper and lets face it can be fitted with big valves anyway. There are plenty of modded ones around. Try a 997 cam grind but get them to add more lift, it makes a big difference Replace all the usuals and you should have a nice little motor. Good luck.
G

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

His head is a bolt-on job.
To make a 202 that good takes about 2 or 3 days grinding, plus you gotta buy bigger valves, new guides, springs, yada yada then get the seats recut and the head decked..

If U got the dosh, I'd buy it..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

that's the problem...i dnt got the dosh just yet....gotta make my mortgage repayment this month....

considering getting that head and not tough the bottom end....later on when or if i do the bottom end, i will get a 1275 and work from that one........

as for now, i have sourced a b16a my mate's seeling with spoon everything on it and made him 128kw ATW in his civic but he wants to do a type r conversion (b18).....and he said that if i want it, i could pay him off bit by bit or l8r down the track....

problem is, it will proly cost my about 6-10k putting it in!! plus brakes on top of that!

its either i stuff around with this a little r i go flat out.....looking at the moment at just doing wat i said above.

low n blown: i know what u mean...its giving me the sh!ts already seeing how much i spend and the power that will come out of it is not that great.....i had a turbo integra about 1 yr ago and it was pulling 180++ at the wheels but it was just too ricy for me!