Thanks to everyone who answered my questions about suspension & brakes heres how my car will be after next Thursday:

1. Honda disc brake conversion ($140 Wreckers + installation expenses).
2. Front shockies (haven't bought any yet).
3. Rear Competition bump stops. ($65 Karcraft)

Then on Thursday 16th sep:

1. 1310cc engine installed.

Shes gunna be a beast.
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Current Set-Up:
1. Stock 1100
2. Stock Drum Brakes
3. Stock Hydro Suspension.

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bastard....



I want one too...

Welcome to the 1310 club! I got one already...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

man you harsh some one is gunna get you one day
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

what mods do i need for a 1310
I WANT ONE!!!

can i use my 1100????

gimme more POWER

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dreaming of a STARLET mini for Christmas 2010!

any starlet mini info please email to adsmini@hotmail.com

STARLET MINI SITE IN PROGRESS.

Should be good, can't wait.

Do you think i'll notice the difference??

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You need a big block (1275) it's got bigger holes in it. And yeah, they can be made bigger still... and `longer'!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You need a 1275, mine has all new parts, reco gearbox and a whole list of other stuff, only a 42" weber

$1500 the parts alone are more so I grabed it.

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hmmm can I fit a V8 in mine and go even faster..??

Heres the full engine spec:

Block:
Thick Flange type without side covers, bored out 60thou. Gearbox flange holes drilled and re-taped to fit larger bolts, new oil gallery plugs fitted.

Crank:
En40b type, previously had 10 thou taken off big end journals, balanced.

Rods:
en19 lighteend, balanced and clamped to the crank with ARP rod bolts.

Flywheel:
lightened and balanced backplate.

Camshaft:
Spup4 296 degree duration, scattered pattern( reduces scavenging from neighboring cylinders.

Timing Gears:
Adjustable double row chain type.

Gear Box:
All new main needle, roller bearings, syncros for all gears. Competition diff sungear join.

Head:
New guides and valves, enlarged intake valvues, head ported and flow tested. Decked for high compression. New inlet stem seals, modified combustion chambers.

Pistons:
New flat top AE pistons also lightened, new rings gaps checked & ok.

Other Parts:
Redline manifold, 42 DOCE Weber carb, ranflow air filter, regrafted distributor, LCB extractors.

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Make sure you port out the Redline manifold. I spent 9 hours in mine with a die grinder.. made a hell of a difference.

I'd put 36 chokes in the carb, if you need bigger I'd get a 45 carb first.

Watch the C/R for a road car. I run flat tops too and had to take heaps out of the chambers to get it down to 10.4:1. It now runs 98 octane.
When it was over 11:1 it pinged its head off, on Super (leaded)..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That motor sounds like it wil pull pretty well. Makes me think I should start saving to build a 1275 rather than play around with my 1098! But then all of a sudden my 40DHLA will be too small

A 40 goes pretty well on a 1275, with 34 chokes. It all depend how big gonads you want your 1275 to have... and how much $$$ U got..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

sound like its going to be a beast mate.
if you need some mounts for the shocks iv got some on a clubby wreck you could prob use.
what colours your mini?

gordie

I've got to actually find a 1275 motor first! If only I could find an old 1100S going cheap, I could pull the motor out and throw the rest away!