Me again, sorry boys.

Firstly I put an MK-1 indicator stalk (metal one with the flashing bulb) instead of the flimsy plastic MK-2 one - broke two of them when braking/steering sharply when a housewife in a 4WD cuts infront of you at a roundabout and freezes staring at you in terror. And I reckon they look better too.
Anyways the MK-1 stalk has the horn positive wire connected to a metal tongue which obviously has to be earthed by contact with the steering rack. The MK-1s had the horn on the steering wheel button but I cant figure out a system to press the horn tab on the stalk from the s'wheel button from any steeering position (as wheel spins but stalk is stationary). I tried connecting the button to the tongue by wire and earthing by contact bw the steering wheel button and the top of the steering column but the flimsy crap of a Mountnet horn push wouldnt stay in place.

Secondly my mechanic says that the only way to help with the engine overheating on a mild 1275 is to replace the stock radiator with a 4 core one. He dismisses my questions about bypass hoses or fitting a heater. Hes a good mechanis but is he right (the car drinks water like a camel like 4 littres into vapour on a hot days driving).

sorry for the long posts and hogging the forum.

NO WAY do you need a 4 core rad.....
My 1310 is giving around 115HP at crank, all it has is a Mini Deluxe 3 core radiator and a MiniMatic fresh air heater. This heater sits on the RH inner guard and takes air from behind the grille, all the time. Acts as an auxiliary radiator. Water flows thru it all the time. You can shut the air off from cabin, it then ejects the air into the engine bay.
Cost $50 or so from Mini places, or just add a heater core from some other car...

It never overheats, either in city traffic on pulling 7500+ around Wakefield Pk circuit. I have fitted these into Clubbies with 1275s, too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

and you defernatlyt need the bypass to stop getting hot spots what thermostat have you got in it ..... oooooooo i just remeberd at the back of the block there is a drain plug from memory behind the plug is part of the water gallery and it can gunk up in there
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Definately Fit an overflow tank then before changing the radiator and Fit a new cap with the flow valve- a commodore one works
I did this on my last clubby and could never over heat it !

I've got an overflow tank and even after 15 mins idling at standstill in my driveway the rad starts spewing water and vapour into it (dont think its a blown head gasket no bubling inside radiator).

A few weeks ago I was stuck in the traffic going from castle hill to Coogee through the city for 3 hours, the overflow tank was 1/2 full of water in the begining, after two hours it started overheating and I eventualy had to stop in the traffic middle of Anzac Parade with an almoust full temp on the gauge and the overflow tank completely dry and almoust smocking to refill water and had to go to side streets and race her at 50mph to cool her down.

Any other suggestions? Anything about the horn? I'm going to past Karkraft pn Friday, might get the original horn button.

Yeah I'd just get a new MK2 one. Less hassle. Karcraft usually have plenty in stock.

BTW, A late Land Rover one fits too, but the clamp needs a bush fitted inside to fit the Mini column.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

hope you got plenny of time to wait on friday ......
pubic holiday
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

i solved all my heating problems with a Thermostat.

i took the radiator out (what a bitch to take out - you dont need to remove the engine to get it out though) and Max looked at it and said i didnt need a new radiator. he gave me a thermostat.

look into the top of a radiator. if the inside looks nice and clean ("WATERLEVEL" sign is clear) then open up the tri-screwed cup thingy on the block right next to the radiator to see if theres a thermostat on it.

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

do have one and I checked it awhile ago and it seemed fine - you reckon changing it would make much difference?