Hi Dr =- Any chance of some pics? or is it like the book?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Problem seems to be solved. A slightly bent selector rod on 1st and 2nd, easy to push when you have no load on it. but a nightmare with the main shaft in place... Anyway, a new rod, or another one that was straight and we have a winner! Gears happily changing now. Mentioned in another thread, about uprated springs for the selectors, where can i get these from Doc? I may as well do this whilst the box is out.
New Main bearings
perfect layshaft,
Good tolerences on the baulk rings, and selector forks.
Should make for a good box.

Now i just have to work out how to put the selector mechanism together... i new i should have taken photo's...

Also any suggestions as to a nice gear ratio, i have a few to choose from, but havent decided yet. I don't want it to be screaming it's head off to do 110 on the freeway.
Cheers

Aaron

David if you're talking about the ass'y tool, I'll take some pics in a day or two, and post them here.
If you have an old 1st gear or 3-4 outer sleeve, it is a 5 min job to do. I covered `how' pretty well in the MiniPortal thread.

Aaron, if you mean the reverse gate lockout spring, I got them last time from Automatic Springs/John While P/L. Spring details are in the other thread.
I have 1 left... yours if you want it!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Done deal, how much, when, where, etc etc.

Cheers

Aaron

PM sent.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok, so the drama unfolds a little further. After having my head in a book, i have discovered that the reason that 4th gears baulk ring is sticking is that it is under too much load. the reason, it seems is that the circlip i have is too big. to get it to fit in properly it i need to really get the bearing in tight. And because it is in so tight there bent after trying to get it out....Turns out that there are two different thickness circlips that are used. my guess is that i have the wrong one. What worries me is that i can't find it in the karcraft catalogue.... I will call them tomorrow and i hope that they have them, if not, does anyone else know where to get them from.

Cheers

Aaron

I've never needed to buy one- I use the old ones but turn them over.
This way it's like fitting a new one! (because they only wear on the outer part of one face and the inner part of the other face)
Take one from another box? Or come see me..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

A quick trip out to the shed and i have out one in that is kinda straight, but i can't do too much now to know if it is going to work. I just have to get the bearing far enough to get it in, the push the bearing back to make it move (baulk ring) i thik i am getting there. we will see tomorrow.

Cheers

Aaron

Did you put the pinion in and tighten the nut?
That bearing with circlip (1st motion) you are talking about has a shoulder on it, the circlip just holds it in there.
I bet the mainshaft is still a little too far in...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i have finally suceeded in putting the box back together, everything bar the gearshift lever mechanism and the pinion are in and ready to go! gotta love a win! all moves freely, tolerences are all spot on and all i need to do now is have it inspected by a mate that knows his stuff, that way i don't put it in the car and completly distroy the engine.

Cheers

Aaron

PS no i wont be doing other people's boxes just yet.