I was offered a 1275 engine out of a Morris Marina yesterday for $400...

Has an early 12g940 head (all flat)
Needs a new headgasket
Gearbox is a nomad item, so will need to be changed to a mini one.... might go for a straight cut one

Is it worth the money? I am considering building a supercharged 1275 with remote change box to replace the 850.

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Don't bother, unless you want to swap cranks...
Crank is different, so is the rear main bearing cap.
Although it IS possible to machine the rear main cap for a Mini, (I've done it) you would need another crank, east/west 1275 type-.. and sell the one in the motor to a Sprite lover..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

isn't a nomad front drive kevin ???
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Makka, he said MARINA, not Nomad...... must be an early? or imported one though, as most of ours got the OHC pos motor...

NZ used 1275 in their Marinas, maybe that's where it's from.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeah i know what he sez BUT i think a nomad is front drive but not quiet sure
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

I think you will find it's an OHC Marina 1750, or OHC 1500 Nomad, a.k.a. Morris 1500. It's not a 1275.. so won't fit a Mini box, whichever of these cars it is from.
Any pics??

The only Nomads that were 1275 were the autos... I had a Morris 1300 auto back then, practically same car except for rear body shape...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thought so
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

sorry - bit of confusion here.....

The car looks like one of these.....




apparently its a Morris 1100S or 1300S motor (it is 1275cc) and is identical to a mini item, but a couple brackets need to be changed, etc....

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

400 well if it is a runner it has to be worth it
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

all i need now is to find out what all the bits and pieces are gonna cost (engine hoist, replacement g-box, etc) and i'll be laughin... hell, might even get the sc850 running (with 1275 power) before minis at the mill!!

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

the box in the car in the picture and the mini box are identical
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

IF it's a manual, that box is only a 3 synchro. Antique. I've got one under the house if anybody wants it.

These days I wouldn't use those boxes in a quick Mini- a 4 synchro Mini-K, or a rod change box is lots stronger, both have bigger idler bearings and synchro on 1st gear, too.
Plenty of them about...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

....thats exactly what i was told...... use a MINI K, MINI A+, or STRAIGHT CUT (depending on funds)..... looks like i'll be saying goodbye to my money and hello 1275 on Monday......

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Unless you are putting a short diff in (like 3.7, 3.9, 4.1) I wouldn't bother with straight cut close ratio box. It will be too slow off the line with a 3.44.

I'd get a Mini-K remote box, and do it up- new synchros, bearings, layshaft, comp diff pin. They are pretty strong- `red850' has one under a 1400 turbo- he's not busted it yet..

Only real differences between a Mini-K and a MK2 S box is 1 tooth difference on the 1st motion shaft, and drive flanges are for rubber unis, not steel. Just as strong..

Advantage of this box over any rod change (incl A+) is it has an extra engine mount in the tunnel-you don't need extra steadies to stop the engine moving around.

If you want one, I might just have a spare suitable for doing up...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks drmini, but today i commited to the following deal....

I bought the 12YD/Ta/H motor today for $400.

It is of 1100S origin, Its got the flat style 12g940 9-stud head, and is running 8.4 to 1 compression.

For an extra $100 i am getting a recon remote change box with a rod type diff.

I will be getting the head redrilled and coverted to 11 stud for $150, lightened flywheel and backing plate for $200, Cooper friction plate for $120, and a 731 cam for $150.

This motor will then be receiving a supercharger kit (similar to the 850), but reduced to 7 pounds boost....... at a cost of $400

Total outlay - $1550

Hopefully this setup will be reliable, strong and efficient....

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs