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Hanra
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 12:57 pm 
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Ill do the rear disc conversion over easter......IN MY DREAMS.....

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PEDDRO
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 4:32 pm 
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Stupid question for the day: have you weighed the disc set-up from either side versus the original drum?

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Hanra
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 5:11 pm 
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No, but im dam sure its heavier. Rotors and calipers weigh a bit!

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 7:49 pm 
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I weighed a complete Honda brake conversion setup and a complete Cooper S setup 2 years ago, I think the Honda was about 1kg lighter. :wink:

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Hanra
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 7:57 pm 
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Well there ya go then!!! Another benefit over fitting S brakes!!!

Kev did u get the email re the Caliper Kits?? K1380S is the P/N....PROTEX brand..

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 8:01 pm 
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Hanra wrote:
Well there ya go then!!! Another benefit over fitting S brakes!!!

Kev did u get the email re the Caliper Kits?? K1380S is the P/N....PROTEX brand..

Yes thanks, I'll see if i can find some... :wink:
Thinking ahead, Saturday is get da Mokes day... 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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Hanra
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 8:04 pm 
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Just b aware the the bouncy bouncy slide dust seals dont fit the best, seem to tight. So i just kept the original ones, soaked em in some armorall

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Hanra
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2007 8:06 pm 
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Bedded the new brakes in this arv... Dragged em for a bit got em hot n up to temp, then stood on em a few times from 100kph..... YEP they certainly work better than drums..... Didnt quite get the rear wheels off the ground... but didnt lock em up either.... So the new S rear wheel cylinders did the trick....

Interesting feeling going from 100kph to 0 so quick.... I reckon my Dunlop Formula R's help as well!!!!

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2007 8:16 pm 
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Yes they do stop, don't they... :lol:
I'm going to look at adapting Honda Civic rotors onto 8.4 drive flanges- so I can run S type CVs on da Moke. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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Hanra
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2007 8:35 pm 
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Wouldnt it be nice to have 13's and have a little bit more space to play with.... Think of the options..... Im gunna have to make a effort at getting my back wheels off the ground.... Even if its just a little bit....

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Morris 1100
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2007 8:42 pm 
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Hanra wrote:
Im gunna have to make a effort at getting my back wheels off the ground.... Even if its just a little bit....
You need to limit the droop of the rear arms. 8)
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supercharged 850
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 2:30 am 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
Hanra wrote:
Im gunna have to make a effort at getting my back wheels off the ground.... Even if its just a little bit....
You need to limit the droop of the rear arms. 8)


Easy, get shortened shockers or set some adjustables to max hard.

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Hanra
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 8:43 am 
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Ive got lowered spax already and they are adjusted to the hardest setting. Maybe they wernt up to full braking capacity as i was still only bedding them in..... Got a fair bit of brake fade afterwards... Mite have to chase up some EBC pads......!

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Mini Mad
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2007 2:52 pm 
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I'm only just going over this again...i'm using Bendix Metal King Pads and i struggle to get fade 8)

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Hanra
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2007 3:09 pm 
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I gave my brakes a full on hard time, i dragged them at 80kph then stood on em quite a few times, probably more then i needed to. By the end of it i had a fair bit of fade. Im only using RDA pads as the brake specialists said that they are easier on the rotors. So they may not be the best pads in the world. But im not running it round the track any time soon.

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