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 Post subject: auxillary radiators
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 4:20 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 12:38 pm
Posts: 2061
Location: adelaide
hey guys,
i got 2 heater cores from work that go in the commodore aircon/heating system. They're probably about 1L or a bit less in capacity each.
I was going to mount them on the front subframe, at the front grill so i had some air flowing directly into the cooling system.
Do i just reroute the coolant pipes going from the top of the rad to the thermostat housing and back there?

ie:
Top of rad -> heater core -> heater core -> thermostat -> engine -> bottom of rad.

Is 2 heater cores overkill? or will it be schweet?
any good ways to connect it? any special piping or things i should know about? anything would be good lads.

Also a question on the side, can i get a radiator cap so that it sucks the coolant back from the overflow tank (which i dont have seeing as mine fell out of its bracket and onto the extractors, while i was driving :| ) once the engine has cooled down? like most cars have.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 4:38 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 9:38 am
Posts: 2008
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Take the heater core off the back of the head oulet and back into the bottom radiator hose
2.9 diff ratio is about the highest ratio you would want to go
on a 1100 it would take a while to wind up though

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 7:08 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 9:52 pm
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Location: Bundaberg QLD
My Dads mini use to have a heater rad on the front and he was usuing the heater connection to allow more cooling and yes it worked all ok.

I am running a overflow cap on my mini not to sure what it is off of know as i only wanted the length to be right as all my other caps were to short. The only thing is that this cap that I have now is 7lb wil the orginal is 13lb put I do not have an problems with the temp getting to high.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 9:36 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2004 8:44 pm
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Location: Far North Queensland
Only 1 core will be needed, brickworx has it correct, from back of head thru heater core to bottom radiator hose. Check out how your heater core works thou, some of them are side by side, some are front/back cores. Side by side is easy, in one out the other. Be careful with front/back as you need to hook hose from back of head to the back core (ie in) to maximise cooling. Steve


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 9:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 03, 2004 6:46 pm
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Location: ADL
Brickworx always has it correct. 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 10:07 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2004 5:05 pm
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Location: South Coast
Guys

Funny you should post this as this is one of the jobs I am doing in mt car tomorrow ao bt Sat afternoon I will have some pix to show you how it's done. I have a Heater Codre from a VW passat, nice and big. As my oil cooler and aor intake for the carb is taking up all the room behind the grill I'm going to mount mine down the bottom.

There I'm using a diffirent system than feen it back into bottom radiator hose. WIll post pix tomorrow,


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 10:33 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 12:38 pm
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Location: adelaide
brickworx wrote:
2.9 diff ratio is about the highest ratio you would want to go
on a 1100 it would take a while to wind up though

are u talking about the question in my other post? :shock:
if so its for a A+ 1275, i think i'd want to drive a mini with a 2.9 before i make a decision, i want long gears tho :P


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2004 8:55 am 
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1275cc
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Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 9:38 am
Posts: 2008
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
most Rovers come out with 3.1 and 3.2 diff...
nice to drive around town and on the freeway.
tallest early diff is 3.44:1
most people i know with a 2.9 have taken them out

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2004 9:01 pm 
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My 1275LS has a 2.9 diff and I wouldn't change it!
You need a very flexible 1275 to use it otherwise you would never do a hill start! So if you are going for a big cam and a narrow powerband run a 3.44.
My LS was quite happy around town at 2000rpm and would run to 6500rpm.

Download Gearcalc http://locost7.info/gearcalc.php
and do the sums before you start building the gearbox.


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 Post subject: WATER COOLING
PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2004 3:01 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2004 6:34 pm
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Location: melbourne vic
i WAS ONCE GOING TO TRY THIS BUT INSTEAD OF USEING A HEATER CORE I WAS GOING TO USE A OIL COOLER AS I SAW THIS DONE ON A UK MINI.
HE HAD IT MOUNTED JUST BELOW HIS NUMBER PLATE ONTO THE SUBFRAME.
HE RAN A PIPE FROM THE TOP OF HIS HEAD INTO THE OIL COOLER OUT OF THE COOLER AND INTO THE HEAD AGAIN....OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT...HE SAID IT WORKED......LOOKED A TAD BETTER THAN A HEATER CORE TOO AS MOST OIL COOLERS ARE POLISHED.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2004 3:10 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 9:38 am
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Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Only problem with running the cooler close to the ground is small rocks hitting it and splitting the core open easily(ruins your drive), when you have it a bit higher you virtually eliminate this problem.
Even trans coolers work well, lot cheaper too

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2004 4:49 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2004 5:05 pm
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Location: South Coast
THis is what I did with mini, it's from a VW passat. Nice big one. Problem with using an oil collor is an oil cooler will cost $100 + for a new one where a heater core costs ZIP.

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