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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 6:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Marvin wrote:
aaron wrote:
It'll go trust me, you just need to get good leverage, i am 110kgs so i can do it myself.


crap... I'll never be able to do it by myself... I'm only 63kgs

OK Marvin get a 2M long bit of pipe then! :lol:
Torque = force (you) x distance (Length of pipe...)!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 7:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 7:23 am
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Location: Sunny Shine Coast, Qld Australia
Dr is right use a longer pipe. Last time I needed to something similar two hands and all my strength on the normal spanner didn't work then using the pipe (2 M) undid it one hand :shock:

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My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 7:22 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2004 2:58 pm
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Location: Hunter Valley NSW
im 115kg ... i should be right ... ill have another crack today and get back to u
Lucas


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 12:17 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2004 2:58 pm
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Location: Hunter Valley NSW
Thanx heaps for everyones advice. I went down the street and bought a 60cm stainless steal pipe and the nut came of in literally 3 seconds. Woohoo!
My Clubby is now back on the road!
Cya
Lucas


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 6:50 pm 
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Location: Hunter Valley NSW
Well i was on the road for a while, but on the way back from newcastle the bolt came out again as I pulled into my driveway. How do i keep it in?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 6:57 pm 
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Location: Adelaide
1. Do it up as tight as buggery using your newly aquired braker bar. As tight as the old one was.

2. Knock back the metal locking tab over the nut to keep it locked in that position.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 7:01 pm 
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Okay ill try that tommorrow. ill have to find myself a new locking tab ... the other one went missing when the bolt came out .... doh! ... i think i got a few spares .... ill keep u updated
lucas


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 7:01 pm 
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WhoDat wrote:
1. Do it up as tight as buggery using your newly aquired braker bar. As tight as the old one was.

2. Knock back the metal locking tab over the nut to keep it locked in that position.

Here's how I do it, it don't come loose.. :P
1. Make sure the bolt threads are good, and dry.
2. Put some Loctite 262 on the threads of the bolt.
3. Refit it without the lockwasher, torque it up to at least 70lb/ft with a torque wrench. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 7:22 pm 
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Yes, dont do it tight as buggery you will just strip it, do it up to 70ft/pound as doc said. I would personally put a lock tab in as well as loctite.

Cheers

Aaron

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 7:52 pm 
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There are 2 reasons I (and another well known Mini engine builder not far from here) use Loctite & don't use locktabs for the balancer or the flywheel::
1. They are soft mild steel sheet and do collapse under load.
2. In the case of the crank balancer, the tab into the pulley is a joke, it hardly holds. And it's a bastard to get at too. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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