Hi all,
I have a problem with my mini as it is running hot. The motor was built by the Brookevale lot ( I know ).
I changed the dizzy a while ago and I phoned them to see what the timming should be and they said to run at 15 deg BTDC static ( which I feel is a bit much ) seems to go ok set at that.
When you are start stopping in traffic it will get hot but will not cool down when traveling at speed.
Would or could the timing be the cause, I have flushed the cooling system and all seemed to be OK.
Any help would be great.
Cheers Pete

P.S This is even with heater on.

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A recent study found the average Aussie walks about 900 miles a year
Another study found Aussies drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year
That means, on average, Australians get about 41 miles per gallon

Kind of makes you proud to be an AUSSIE

what size engine and radiater?
thermostat?
what fan?
Has it been tuned? (not running lean)
Exhaust not collapsed?

I'm not sure of your engine spec but try using a standard radiator get it professionally cleaned (not just a reverse clean).
Use a 74 degree thermostat (with a few 4mm hole drilled in the edge)
Get a proper tune
and get the correct radiator cap!!!!

It is what they call an 1100 sports, it is a 998 block. I am using an 74 degree thermostat and the radiator has been flushed and using the correct radiator cap. Running standard 16 blade steel fan. Unsure of the tune, but had a look today and where the extractors bolt to the head they have been fairly hot. Where would be the best place to get it tuned ( I live in western sydney )
Cheers

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A recent study found the average Aussie walks about 900 miles a year
Another study found Aussies drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year
That means, on average, Australians get about 41 miles per gallon

Kind of makes you proud to be an AUSSIE

I'd go see Ivan at Mini Spares & Repairs, Castle Hill.
Or Greg, at Mini Classic, Hope St, Ermington.

<edit> Is it really running hot- maybe the gauge is not reading correct. Can be caused by the wrong temp sender, or a faulty Voltage stabilizer (behind speedo).
I'd check with the cap off- put a proper thermometer in the top tank, and run the motor at idle until hot.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I was having a chin wag with Ivan today. He is a great guy and I have no hesitation in recommending him!

Have you touch the engine recentily...plus additonal to the above

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Flushing radiators does stuff all if the dirt has been in there for any length of time. Drop the water level and have a look at the individual tubes through the cap opening. If any are blocked it is recore time. Never rebuild a motor without at least pulling the tanks off and checking the tubes. personally I never rebuild a motor without a recore or new radiator. Motors are a bloody sight more expensive and difficult to deal with after you have overheated it due to penny pinching with radiators. If it came to money for a head or a rebuilt radiator the radiator gets first pick. We never rebuilt a motor without doing the radiator and if the owner didn't want to cough up he went elsewhere.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

i reckon kev is on the money, my old clubby used to go
off the guage and constantly run hot (according to the guage)
but never ONCE boiled!?!? but all the fins on my radiator were
pretty cactus so the car prob was running hot

hi Pete,
I too bought my car from brookvale(unfortunately)
and i thoght my engine was running hot also.
I bought a elect temp gauge with a sender unit and only
installed the gauge.Bad mistake, gauge and sender unit
are a matched pair.I removed original sender and installed new
sender with adapter and now temp sits at 180 deg F or 82 deg C.
Maybe thats all thats wrong with yours if your not losing water.
rgds Felix

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1966 mustang coupe 289 auto
1970 mgb roadster auto
1970 cooper S mk2
1976 mini S
1964 wolseley 24/80
http://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t173/1966mini/

Note that if the V stabilizer behind speedo is cactus (shorted inside) the temp and fuel gauges will get around 14V instead of 10V, and will both read high. Like our Barney's did.
I fitted an electronic reg- thanks, Wombat!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

hey deluxe_68,
besides the temperature, honestly how does the engine run?
when was it done?

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

Hmm something is going a bit doggy from the brookvale group,

Same thing is happening with myself, i had my radiator, water pump, and thermostat change about a year ago but when driving around for long periods it seems to be running hot still.

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Jet Red Mini K

I can supply new electronic replacements for the voltage regulator PM if needed

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Thanks to everyone for your help, I just have one more If after I have had it tuned and it is still running hot, what is the best radiator to put in.
Cheers Pete

_________________
A recent study found the average Aussie walks about 900 miles a year
Another study found Aussies drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year
That means, on average, Australians get about 41 miles per gallon

Kind of makes you proud to be an AUSSIE

MiniSpares 2 core or 4 core.
But really, it should be OK with the standard 3 core rad if it's cleaned out or recored.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.