ausmini
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/

Paint: match or code?
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=46836		 Page 3 of 3
Author:  p7676 [ Sat Jan 20, 2018 7:58 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Paint: match or code?
do you think BMC matched the car off another part or car? All the paint was matched to an exact formula if you did not do this the time involved for a repairer to match the color would increase .All the wacky ideas about matching the paint to a floor panel are crazy. What do you do when you have an accident match it to the floor again ?Quality control is paramount in a car factory it would be an abrogation of manufacture if the cars were not all painted to the same formula. By the way I worked there I was an engineer.p7676
Author:  Ian_B [ Sat Jan 20, 2018 8:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Paint: match or code?
Well im sure back in 1969 the formulas were all spot on.The samples I got for my car were acrylic and strangely werent blue enough .The dash panel was bluer than the fresh acrylic.Weird. Spectro matched my pearl red clubman spot on. Slow hardener in a gas preheated insulated shed .Engine bay is awesome.Must have been the preppers :)
Paint was De beers .Name says it all good stuff
Author:  winabbey [ Sat Jan 20, 2018 8:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Paint: match or code?
p7676 wrote:
do you think BMC matched the car off another part or car? All the paint was matched to an exact formula if you did not do this the time involved for a repairer to match the color would increase .All the wacky ideas about matching the paint to a floor panel are crazy. What do you do when you have an accident match it to the floor again ?Quality control is paramount in a car factory it would be an abrogation of manufacture if the cars were not all painted to the same formula. By the way I worked there I was an engineer.p7676

The original paint codes and formulas are in the link below, but not of much use because tinters have changed, as mentioned a few times already. That's why matching by eye or machine is the only option. Of course once someone has done this accurately the formula can be used by others. I've had Baltic Blue matched and mixed in acrylic using the underside of the number plate flap on my car.

p7676 - if you have a method for converting the formulas to use current tinters that result in exactly the original shade I and many others would be interested to know. It would save us having to use the match by eye method.

P.S. All the images in the following folder are still on Photobucket so you'll need the Google Chrome browser and the add-in to see them.

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... 25&t=66469
Author:  p7676 [ Sat Jan 20, 2018 9:30 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Paint: match or code?
the tinters are EXACTLY the same the only difference is the 2 pack paint is slightly brighter than the original paint which is to be expected. My C.S is the same as the original paint I know this as I painted the floor which was always covered .I did a complete body paint on a rotisserie .jET red which always looked orange as they wanted a red that was different than the MGBs and other red vehicles at the time Don't let the color name fool you I have seen these cars when they were new in the factory and watched the painting process. Would I paint my CADDY in nitro c , acrylic, or 2pack to a correct formula, the answer is clear. Maybe we should use what Henry F used in 1910.Dont forget Fords were painted dry and Holden's were painted wet also correct gun technique must be used and the correct number of top coats. I know what method was used to paint a mini as it was a different application than most other car builders. P7676
Author:  Ian_B [ Sat Jan 20, 2018 10:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Paint: match or code?
My car wasnt Indigo Baltic or anything usual.I spoke to an old man that worked on the production line .He told me what it would be from the year chassis number and drip rail number.BMC Crystal White was also used on Holdens .Lots went on back then
Author:  gtogreen1969 [ Sat Jan 20, 2018 10:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Paint: match or code?
p7676 wrote:
the tinters are EXACTLY the same the only difference is the 2 pack paint is slightly brighter than the original paint which is to be expected. My C.S is the same as the original paint I know this as I painted the floor which was always covered .I did a complete body paint on a rotisserie .jET red which always looked orange as they wanted a red that was different than the MGBs and other red vehicles at the time Don't let the color name fool you I have seen these cars when they were new in the factory and watched the painting process. Would I paint my CADDY in nitro c , acrylic, or 2pack to a correct formula, the answer is clear. Maybe we should use what Henry F used in 1910.Dont forget Fords were painted dry and Holden's were painted wet also correct gun technique must be used and the correct number of top coats. I know what method was used to paint a mini as it was a different application than most other car builders. P7676


If the tinters are exactly the same and the percentages are listed in the paint codes then why is everyone having an issue?
Author:  9YaTaH [ Sun Jan 21, 2018 6:57 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Paint: match or code?
Where do I start? :lol:
Author:  deluxe67 [ Sun Jan 21, 2018 7:17 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Paint: match or code?
According to Paint experts I've spoken to (including a best mate who is a Paint Chemist), it's virtually impossible to match paint 100%. Close, yes. Exact, cannot be done...
Author:  Scoop [ Sun Jan 21, 2018 7:52 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Paint: match or code?
I always remember this thread
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=87354&hilit=Bmc+paint+colour+match
There is a really good explanation on page 3
Life seems much simpler when your colour blind!
Author:  coatsie [ Sun Jan 21, 2018 3:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Paint: match or code?
9YaTaH wrote:
Where do I start? :lol:

...... by getting yourself a good red!
Author:  p7676 [ Sun Jan 21, 2018 7:46 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Paint: match or code?
The only issue is when you have to paint single panels etc. The paint is matched to the formula, there may be a light difference if the paint is acrylic L and 20 years old .Most painters will blow the paint into the surrounding panels so your eye cannot see an edge this procedure is fine. In the US and most European countries the paint is mixed to the formula and the single panel is painted, even if they are painting a Caddy. In Australia we are fussy about our cars ,a good SP in Australia will do a good job but he cannot compensate for paint that is past its use by date. That is why when doing a respray you must use the best materials that are available .It will pay off in the long run. Also if you don't have the $s stick with acrylic all Minis don't have to be Garage Queens.P7676
Page 3 of 3 All times are UTC + 10 hours
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
http://www.phpbb.com/