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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 6:13 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Sydney - strangely, I am glad of the sight of hills!!
and i have barely run in my 5 port engine :lol:

intersting that my 5 port also got more torque and lower down than the KAD. Ok so it doesn't rev as high to get the top end power, but then it is limited by the EN16B crank material to 7000rpm :wink:

That new 7 port looks like the perfect head for an improved production (3J) Mini racer.....

cheers
michael

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 6:14 pm 
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998cc
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GR, Maybe we need to get that turbo set up we have been talking about on a 7 port???

i think 250hp would be on the money.

I think i may pop in shortly...

Grant

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 7:41 pm 
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thanks GR and madmatt for your detailed explanations, price seems affordable also


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 7:53 pm 
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the King of Bling
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I can see what Ill be dreaming of tonight 8)

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 7:54 pm 
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gafmo wrote:
I can see what Ill be dreaming of tonight 8)


You'll be dreaming of polishing one to a mirror finish ...

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 7:56 pm 
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the King of Bling
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no not really but it would be the show piece :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 8:33 pm 
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1275cc
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GR, will the 7 port be able to use "S" valves and will the valve springs have the same height as in a big valve 5 port head or will it be similar to the 8 port head when "S" valves are fitted where the valve springs end up being shorter in length/compressed to much (about 7 or 8 mm) increasing seat pressure and spring bind as well as reducing valve travel?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 10:09 pm 
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Also, purely as a point of interest, (as GR touched upon) that "Some" after market cyl heads which have been avaliable for quite some time (A-series & other makes) have tended to be in the "too big" port dept with some poor angles to boot,,, so very few have cast their heads with small enough ports to then be able to "Play" with port sizes, shapes & angles in an effort to Develope the head more to suit their intended purpose... this , it seems, (Noting how small the ports are on the Elder before GR has his play) is how The Elder head has been produced,,, just another example of quality thinking,,, well done.

As GR has basically mentioned , it`s not all about a massive size hole & in some cases, a smaller hole is better (ala some of the earlier V8 super car engines that Perkins was doing he also filled the ports & re-shaped),,, The Large valve KAD head is yet another perfect example & one which GR has pointed out,,, the smaller Kad head does produce far better low end & mid range power with a broader, more usable power spread... as does the Bimmer.

However , BMW did their homework with their cyl head designs well before finishing & selling the bikes & have a very small port(31mm) , coupled with small-ish valves (26.5mm), keeping air speed up early in the revs... that`s not to say that it can`t be improved upon tho :-)

most car & bike companys have to keep an eye on & juggle the production costs & the relationship between drivability, power & economy,,,, so "Most" mass produced engines are , in effect, a compromise.... they are definately no "Full-Race" cyl head straight out of the box,,,

Obviously nor is the Elder , otherwise GR wouldn`t be working on it.

The ability to "Play" with port shapes, sizes & angles (especially with the use of a flow bench & someone who knows how to use one properly) coupled with the ability to creat a decent chamber filling characteristic throughout any given rev range is where the 'Horses for courses" come into play,,, not everyone wants a fire breathing full race engine,,, & not everyone wants a mild shopping trolley engine either,,, but some well designed heads can be used as both... this Elder head i believe may well be one of them going on the looks of things & what i believe GR will be able to do with it..

of course they would be 2 totally different engine builds tho,,, Obviously you can`t have a fire breathing full race engine """&""" a nice mild road engine in the one package,,, OH!!! unless it`s turbo injected unit of course.... The Elder head (like many others) would most certainly be able to perform this same task as well as any i`m sure.

& please understand that if money is your only guiding factor, & you really don`t want to spend much... then maybe you should leave your std A-series head on your car,,, that way it actually costs nothing to leave it there,,, :-) ,,, But if you want pure "Full Race" like the figures that GR has stated then it`s obviously going to cost more than just the cyl head , because the full race figures that have been displayed are usually set up on a full race type complete power unit package with all the strong full race type components thrown in to hold it all together with the costs of decent clutch & flywheel packages & decent gearbox & diff packages & & & & to make it all work,,, Not your average road drivable daily driver with high compression & high valve lift cams & such.

& obviously there is far more power avaliable than that tho,,, with even more money spent,,, There are many people, all over the world racing 220hp (& upwards) minis.... but then it becomes all just a matter of having it all hold together for any length of time :-)

It`s good to dream tho,,, What would have happened if no one ever dreamt of going to the moon????? As Peter Brock kept telling me "Live your dreams"

:-) Dream on people,,, Dream on :-) Maybe one day we can all have that illusive bolt on , cheap as chips, fire breathing race mini engine that can actually be driven daily without any weakness or premature wear issues that also cooks the meals & does the dishes for us :-)

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Last edited by TheMiniMan on Mon Jun 29, 2009 5:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 11:02 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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Yet another example of the "Horses for Courses" thing i`m always on about

If i did something like this--->

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well i don`t reckon that i`d fit a turbo injected twin cam 16v bimmer head into it,,, but that`s only because of 2 reasons,,, one is that i wouldn`t want to ruin the lovely bonnet line of it by having to fit a big bonnet buldge to accomodate the high line of the over head cams,,, & 2ndly because i really wouldn`t want to stuff with any part of it`s body at all for the sake of my heart strings not allowing me to stuff with any part of originality of the "body" of the vehicle

BUT!!!!!!!!!!! I sure would seriously think about a turbo injected Elder 7port for it :-),,, maybe no body mods needed (maybe) :-) & Keep those nice smooth go=fast lines :-) & "That`s" a dam good example of what i`m talkin about with "Horses for courses" ,,, Lots of horses (hp) for all the courses (Race tracks) :-)

Yes sir-y Bob, Yummy Tell yer Mummy :-) How much did you say those heads were again GR??? :-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 12:36 am 
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1098cc
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OK I will stick my neck out and throw my 2 bobs worth in.
Sorry but I look at the cost and what is achieved. I agree with Matt as we have both played with bike heads. I went with the honda 16 v/v because
1 cheap to buy. F3 F4 complete with carbs and pipes around $400-$500
2 F3 25mm inlet, 23mm exhaust 11.5 mm lift. inlet ports 36mm
3 F4[ race replica] 28mm inlet, 26mm exhaust 13.5mm lift fitted with R1 race cams. inlet ports 42mm. cost $600-$700 [there are a few in aust left, I have not bought them all]
4 the heads have a tapered/split port design and when you look at the HP/torque even for the bike, well!!!!!!!
The problem I have found with the conversion is that the bottom ends will never be able to pull enough revs to match the performance of the heads.
A std CBR 600 eng with F3 head produces 110 hp. a F4 race eng produces over 150HP at 10,500 revs.
the latest BMW K1200 figures, well look them up. I know why Matt loves them.
Air, fuel and RPM = HP not just swept volume
I have done the conversion a certain way ,but there have been some done O/S where the head is bolted directly to the block and it works.
I know that mine still need more development, but all the problems I have had have all been block related[ie pistons,rings. conrods,main brg caps] and not the heads as I have pushed them well beyond the limits of a mini block.
Now I will pull my head in and shut up :D :D :D

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:26 am 
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ausmini mod
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Well done GR - especially on the technology and putting pictures and replies up here :D

The Elder head will be a much easier thing to make serious power with over the bike heads anyday. When I say easier I mean all the mods needed for a bike head.

Dave and Matt - dont take this in the wrong vein - not having a go at anyone - honest!
The problem I see with any bike head conversion is that as you have both stated these things need massive revs and the bottom ends cant do that..

What then - Well, mod the bottom end to suit... in the end you basically might have well whacked in a BMW or Honda or whatever motorbike engine to begin with - I would hazard to guess it would work out cheaper too (except the road rules - not sure if you can do it)

An Elder 7 Port injected turbo... thats what I want for my next mini...

Jee I miss the Turbo :(

Pete

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 11:52 am 
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Pete,,, i`m with you on all what you say -->, """Except"" the fact that the Bimmer doesn`t need to rev the tits off it to work,,, they`ve been designed with exactly that broad power spread characteristic in mind,,, & made very well indeed, have small ports & small chambers with good angles & no shrouding etc ,,,, most of the other "late" model bike engines have been designed with very high revs in mind (as David brushed upon) ,,, the bImmers are happy to putter around the low revs all day, The 8V head in fact is very very similar in it`s characteristics to a decent large bore A-series head & yet are still happy enough to pull 8000rpms + "As-Well" (A very good compromise) ,,, the K1200 is just a far better option for very high revs.

I`m not trying to compare apples with apples , nor am i trying to compare apples with oranges either,,, the Bimmer is just a dam good head,,, the 7 port is also a dam dood head,,, there is a whole series of Weslake designed heads around, (some better than others),,, the Arden is a dam good race head with fairly broad spread, but as GR suggests it`s a bit more difficult to work with,(among other problems) the Alexander & the Pinion heads & others are all just part of the 40-50 odd + year game of trying to find that illusive "Be-All & end all of cyl heads" for the A-series,,, They all have their good points & their bad points,,, they all have some form of "compromise" built in,,,, this 7 port may well be the best "compromise" out of all of them.

but what i`m just trying to get across is that a "Full Race" engine (no matter what brand or make) is just that,,, FULL RACE ... it cannot be fittind into a "Road" car & putter around all day nice & smooth, torquey, drivable & reliable "On Pump Fuel",,, No full race engine has ever achieved such a feat.... & No "FULL RACE" figures are going to overly impress me either,,, when most people on this forum & other mini forums may well be impressed by someone throwing huge "FULL RACE" performance figures around , when the "AVERAGE" Joe/Jane Doe is not going to use such an engine in their entire life time... This is one thing that GR has tipped upon & that is---> the fact that he is chasing a broader spread, more torquey across the rev range, & more usable, & very versatile,,, I agree with him & what both he & Elder are doing,,, To be able to pull harder right the way through the rev range & yet still rev hard , that`s what wins races... That`s why for the last 500 million years i`ve used rather large engines (1400 & 1500cc) to accomodate that broad spread, usable for both road & race at the same time type of engine,,, this 7 port may well be able to be fitted to a smaller capacity engine with similar results to a bigger engine with smaller cam profile.... that` s a dam good thing!!!

I`m not bagging the Elder or GR at all,,, in fact if you read all my posts about this head, i`m singing their praise, complimenting both Elder & GR on what they`re doing,,, i think it`s a dam good thing & as i`ve posted many times now, they`re obviously very good value for money too, compared to many other optionsavaliable at the moment, which is what the average Joe/Jane would like,,, so it`s all very very good indeed

So yes Pete,,, I`m agreeing with GR, (& you) :-) However I`ve been bitten by the turbo injected multi-valve bug :-) But i`m also all for the turbo injected 7 port idea,,, like i said in my post above,,, one may very well actually end up being in my marcos before long :-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 6:57 pm 
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Oh dear, worry, worry...

Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2009 5:31 pm
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Location: North Rocks
Hi ballistic
Dont ever try to use standard valves in both arden or elder as both of these heads are designed to run longer valves because these heads are taller
Graham Russell


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 7:51 pm 
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1275cc
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GR wrote:
Hi ballistic
Dont ever try to use standard valves in both arden or elder as both of these heads are designed to run longer valves because these heads are taller
Graham Russell


Which valves do you reccomend using for these 7 and 8 port heads Graham?

Cheers Scott

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:20 pm 
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Oh dear, worry, worry...

Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2009 5:31 pm
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Location: North Rocks
Hi Matt
First of all lets get the price of this head out of the way $3000.00 +gst complete head
Manifold $250.oo +gst takes 2 webers.
Now lets talk about road engines the figures I quoted for the elder head were every day drivers as I will endever to prove to you all.
Now I wasn’t going to say to much about this yet because its still in development stages
But I have designed and developed a new camshaft for the minis and you being a man of the world will under stand how good this cam is.
Duration 260 deg valve timing of 20 60
Lift .270 on lobe
So it’s a very small cam its 6 deg smaller than a kent 266 and .004 tho more lift and 2 deg
More duration than the sw5 but has .020 tho less lift but out performs all of these cams by far nothing will come any where near it in its class and will out perform other cams that are much bigger, the dyno engine I built is 1380cc 12g940 road head single 13/4
Hif SU on a mini spares inlet manifold ,maniflow long centre branch extractors
The power figures were
Torque HP
3000 98ftlb 56
3500 102ftlb 68
4000 105ftlb 80
4500 104 89
5000 105 100
5500 103 108
6000 100 114
6500 96 119
7000 79 105
Now as soon as I put a long manifold on with a weber it went 112ftlb torque and 125 hp
This is more than I see out of some race engines.this cam is rather radical design and im still doing more testing on it.
Now if we were to put this cam with the elder head how drivable would that be,note that this motor is making its power by 6500 rpm 500 rpm than a std cooper S


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