Im thinking of installing a hydraulic handbrake on the old girl...is it worth it and wat sort of money and work am i looking at

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12 Months ?????????????

Not on a road car. So not needed on a 998 Mini Matic! You cant use it as a park brake.

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i have a feelin that's not what he'll use it for..
but why would u get a matic, if u wanna do handbrakies?
and why would u do handbrakies anyway..

if my judgement is wrong. i apologise.

Hence me saying "Not on a road car.".

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For Roadworthy your car must have a mechanical braking device i.e. not hydraulic.

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Ben

Hmmmm... I've driven cars in the US which had a hydraulic (foot operated) park brake, and I've heard some are registered here now... so maybe `tis legal now if you ask..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

excops we dont have roadworthy's in SA, remember, we're the layed back state

hey mike,

SOUTH AUSTRALIA is the state for crappy cars.

JIM

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(60 hp @ 5700 RPM) in my old mini.

CMON yes i do do handbrakies and im not 1 to do everything by the book...no im not a hoon but i like to have a bit of FUN.

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12 Months ?????????????

doing handbrakie's is like a hoons key characteristic.

Forget the hydro handbrake. Convert yours to `fly-off' type like the works rally cars had.

I've got one in the garage... haven't fitted it yet, but soon!

ps. easy to convert...:
1. Drill out or grind off the pin that the pawl pivots on, in the handle.
2. Grind the pivot pin off that the pushrod goes into.
3. Make another fork piece and weld it on near the other end of the pawl. Make sure the pawl tooth will still engage in the ratchet.
4. Assemble the pushrod into the new fork with a new pin or rivet.
5. Bend the pushrod a little so the pawl can be refitted in its original position in the handle.
6. Fit a new pin thru the handle and rivet it in place.

Alternative-
Quick & dirty gymkhana method:
Drill out the pivot pin, replace it with a bolt and nyloc nut.
When you are going gymkhana'ing or handbrake hooning, push the button in and tighten the nut. Note the handbrake will not lock until you loosen it..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

alternatively..... push the button in and drill straight through the handle and button while it is pushed in.
when you want to lock it open... push in the button and drop a split pin, or bolt etc into it.. then wrap in some tape so you dont cut your hand on it... easy

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...its leaking oil... and thats a good sign!
It lets me know that I havent run out yet. -Tzi 4-9-04

I have a hydralic handbrake in my cooper s, me & my wife use the car for tarmac khanas, its tops when its working, very frustrating when its not, you have to pull the limiting valve apart and i would advise you replace the rear rubber brake lines that run over the trailing arms with braided hose, you need a 5/8 cylinder. The road & rally cantre in sydney make up a great bracket with the cylinder for around $180, its wn=hat i have in my car, i can take a photo of it if you like.

doogie

One problem with Hydraulic handbrakes............

Hydraulic fluid is virtually incompressible. If it gets colder(parking overnight), the pressure will decrease possibly allowing the vehicle to move. If it gets hotter, and you have it locked on, then it expands, putting even more pressure on components leading to failure if done too often.

We have hydraulic park brakes on the helicopters, and they're never to be used for restraining the aircraft without someone in it.

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

i still have the standard cable handbrake. The hydralic is only used for handbrake turns.

Doogie