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J_A_M
 Post subject: timing chain
PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 9:02 pm 
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How much sideways movement should there be in a timing chain?

My original 998's chain seemed to have sh!tloads of movement.... :?
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gafmo
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 9:03 pm 
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Go Double or replace the chain..It maybe an Idea to check for worn sprokets :!:

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benjamin
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 9:03 pm 
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best to replace it :)

get a double row one if so :wink:
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J_A_M
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 9:15 pm 
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yea I am going ot replace....I just wanted to know if that was normal.

Double sounds good.
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aaron
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 9:39 pm 
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NO, It should have pretty minimal movement. Too much movement and the timing would be all over the shop. Variable cam timing in a bad way!
Double row is the way to go. $7 for the chain. Kazjim may have one left. Thats where i got mine for th clubby, when i get round to it.

Cheers
Aaron

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gafmo
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 9:46 pm 
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Best way to check is Flex it between both hands at each end...Like a Wobbel Board...(I don't Know but it works)...Or Close the sides to gether, Eye Level and see how much the chain flex..Should not be to much for a good chain.... :arrow: Measurment :?:
I think you may have to by one anyway..re-assurance Things :?

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J_A_M
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 9:51 pm 
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i reckon the movement of mine was about 15-20mm all up, from one side to the other! :shock:

I knew straight away it wasn't right....

Yes, the motor ran like a dog!!!!!
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 9:54 pm 
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If buying duplex chain, it is all crap these days ( read.. loose) except the endless Iwis race chain. That is good stuff but at around $60 it better be. If you can get it.:wink:

I run a toothed belt drive, but even they are made in China now and are crap too- very flimsy. So I put the old Dayco one back on until I get some decent kevlar race ones from the states. 8)

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gafmo
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 10:00 pm 
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Whats the next best then..Myself $60 is fine But for someone else :?:

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 10:03 pm 
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Not much to choose. I would have thought the AE chain would be tighter than it is.
I used to get Renolds duplex chain from work years ago- now that was good chain! and cheap toooo..... :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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gafmo
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 10:04 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Not much to choose. I would have thought the AE chain would be tighter than it is.
I used to get Renolds duplex chain from work years ago- now that was good chain! and cheap toooo..... :lol:

What was the chain we saw resently :?

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drmini in aust
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 10:06 pm 
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AE- you still have the box.. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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gafmo
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 10:07 pm 
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Nope all clean now :?

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Chris
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2005 1:13 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
II run a toothed belt drive, but even they are made in China now and are crap too- very flimsy. So I put the old Dayco one back on until I get some decent kevlar race ones from the states. 8)


How are you going to source the belts? I need one as well. Did you find a number? I haven't been able to chase it up due to not being able to drive for six weeks after my op.

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miniVan
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2005 3:11 pm 
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there was SFA movement in my duplex chain.. my single had 30+mm freeplay.. that was awesome for timing. my motorbike chain doesnt even have that much (25mm)

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