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 Post subject: stripping paint
PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 2:54 pm 
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Daffodil 1275
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Location: Bathurst
just after a few pointers when it comes to stripping back the paint, considering getting the whole car blasted. Is this a good option as i have heard good and bad things about it


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 3:41 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Armidale, NSW
What I believe to be true:

Sandblasting can distort large flat panels but it is OK in fact good for things like gutters and sills

Sand blasting may find areas where the metal is thin or rusted and make these into holes, IMO you would want to find these anyway and fix them before any paint goes on.

Flat panels can be relatively easily stripped with paint stripper and this will save you money when you go to get the rest of you car sandblasted. (if you do)

IMO you want to take all paint you can off(certainly outside) there is often (at least on my car) rust hiding under paint and there is no way you can see it.

My little brother didn't like the idea of using a wire wheel as he said this can heat the metal and cause distortion of the panel I am not sure about this and I have used a wire wheel and had no problems as far as I could see.

I reckon your best bet if you are prepared to do some paint stripping yourself is to strip as much of the flat panels and easily accessable areas as possible and get the rest blasted. This saves you money but gets the best job possible I think. Talk to your chossen panel beater / spray place and see what they say.

Oh and let the panel beater organise for the sandblasting as they will want to get some paint on it as soon as possible to stop it rusting, or at least make sure they can get it sprayed soon after being blasted.

You don't want to leave the metal bare for any length of time, you can temporarily spray it with primer? to stop it from rusting and this will come off with a quick rub with thinners if need be.

well that's my 2 cents :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 5:44 pm 
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1275cc
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fuzzy-hair-man wrote:
well that's my 2 cents :D


may be 2 cents worth, but thats pretty valuable advice.


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 Post subject: Some thoughts
PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 6:06 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Eastern Melbourne
Found that sand blasting is very effective in removing paint and hiding imperfections, make sure you have a very good look at the car with the paint on as you can pick up waves and dints more easily. Try also to be ready for the body when it's blasted and get it "as blasted" I have found some sand blasters use the undercoat to cover the paint they didnt blast off.

For using stripper, apply course scratches to the paint with a 40 grit pad before applying stripper. The stripper will use these scratches to get through the paint and emulisfy it from the top, side and bottom,(read less stripper working more effectively)

Finally take some pictures and post it up. Its a good day when a mini is fully rebuilt ready for another 40+ years of motoring


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 6:07 pm 
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Postally Verbose
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well.. I will put 1c in to this one.... sandblasting is great if it is done well. I can make pannles warp but only done reallty bad and it will happen when you do both sides of a pannle. Now sandblasting in corners and seams.. not a great idea.. cause think of all the little bits of rust that are coming of the car with the sand. tends to go into places you cant get to. so unless you are sure you can get all the sand and paint and rust out of every little corner after... the rust will regenerate later on down the track..

there are a few good articals around on the net if you look. and it will tell you a lot more than this sleepy fool can.. :lol: I hate this time of the week.. on night shift. where is the weekend!!! :cry:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 6:11 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Armidale, NSW
Oh stripper works better when the surface is warm and Besser is right the stripper will lift from around scratches making it easier :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 6:21 pm 
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What about acid dipping? Anyone used this method?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 6:26 pm 
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acid dipping is great 2.. just don't wanna have 2 much rust in the car to start with.. or there will not be much left.. I got a quote a few weeks back.. $1400 for a shell, 2 door, bonnet and boot. $$$$$$


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 11:53 pm 
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Location: Helensburgh NSW
GT1310 wrote:
acid dipping is great 2.. just don't wanna have 2 much rust in the car to start with.. or there will not be much left.. I got a quote a few weeks back.. $1400 for a shell, 2 door, bonnet and boot. $$$$$$


Acid dipping like everything has its drawbacks. It does a complete and very thorough job of removing all the paint and any sealer between panels. The problem with this is you cannot effectively get paint back in to all the hidden areas inside and this will leave those areas unpainted and prone to rust. The sealer between the panels is most probably not a problem with minis as I don't think there was any in minis. If the body was going to be paint dipped afterwards then it would be obviously be ok.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2005 7:29 am 
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religious status
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After applying stripper, cover it with gladwrap or plastic, it will eat the paint more effectively. :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2005 8:43 am 
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talking about stripping paint Kev.......the Sunset Red on Redmond is so tough, that when we have been rubbing back with wet/dry, anything over the red comes off like melted butter, but nothing can shift that red!

Tempted to rub back to the red, then buff it! :lol: :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2005 8:54 am 
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J_A_M wrote:
talking about stripping paint Kev.......the Sunset Red on Redmond is so tough, that when we have been rubbing back with wet/dry, anything over the red comes off like melted butter, but nothing can shift that red!

Tempted to rub back to the red, then buff it! :lol: :lol:

Yeah I found that when I stripped the LH door opening off it- that 1964 baked enamel is tuff stuff! :lol:

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