By all accounts (and my sotp recollection) 13s just didn't suit it. It used to change lanes in the dry when you gave it the berries.
I agree about the subframe, but no I didn't design it (and I plead the 5th amendment on any input I had there).
I reckon a lot of the problem was/is that it is overpowered. with 150HP or so at the treads instead of 200+ it would be much more manageable.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Lets just all agree on that one! I was scared poo pants with Brad's conversion and it had much less HP...




Back to topic, I fang* my measly 120bhp around and 10's are fine, even on A008's end of story. Tomorrow She will have a new set of A032R's so a new chapter of fanging* begins




*all fanging done on private roads and no illegal activity is being conducted or referred to

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Haha nah Lillee I haven't been throwing it into corners at illegal speeds, just fun mini speeds. Maybe the rolling it's more in the suspension than the tire (hydro with not shocks). I've heard good things about the a008 so maybe that makes up for traction. Don't get me wrong im not saying 13's are better at all, I've just grown fond of them. Plus I have 8.4 disk brakes so no tens for me anyway

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If its yours, customize it !

There's a trick! you buy 12 inch minitors which fit the 8.4's and put on some super thin tyres. Overall diameter is only a few cm more than a 10inch wheel with normal tyre tread. GR has this on his 1400 stroker. Just a thought, big wheels and handling all at the same time!

I love 2 for 1 deals

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

At the moment moneys going to body work and engine anyway

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If its yours, customize it !

Just reviving this question as I am starting my gearbox build and a few things have changed. This car is no longer going to be my everyday driver just my loud fun car for weekends and odd days to work.(bought a quite 1988 honda civic) I was advised that I should put a 3.44 diff in this however I just pulled the box down and counted 62 teeth on the crown wheel and 17 on the pinion making this a 3.647. By putting a 3.44 in this would reduce my acceleration and increase my top speed correct? How do my 13inch wheels effect this? Would putting a 3.765 in it just be a bad idea? Just throwing some idea around in my head. Also how to the gear ratio's in the box effect this. I have much to learn about gearbox ratios. Thanks heaps

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If its yours, customize it !

I run Mk2S gears in my box with the 1360, and a 3.647 diff. Acceleration is great, to 5000 in 1st gear... then wheelspin to 7500...
I'd put a 3.44 in a 1380, unless it's a track or rally car. I only fitted the 3.647 for track days (which I don't do anymore).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm not sure what gears I'm running but just for example if they were what you'd find in a mini k box and I changed them to cooper s mk2 gears and a 3.44 diff would this make it better than the k gears and 3.6 diff? I just thought the 3.6 would would help make it a bit revier for the lightened flywheel and re13 cam? Just trying to get my head around all this haha

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If its yours, customize it !

Yes it would. the S gears make 1, 2 & 3 about 1/17th taller (4th stays as is), and the 3.44 diff makes the whole lot (1,2 3 & 4) another 1/17th taller too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

To convert a Mini K gearbox to a Mk2 Cooper S ratios you only need to change the Laygear and the 4th speed gear. That's what I have in my Cooper S with a 3.44:1 diff.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

If the Cooper S 18T `4th gear' (aka 1st motion shaft) is unavailable (getting scarce) you can use the 1275GT 18T one, p/no DAM3167.
The only difference is this gear needs an A+ mainshaft with the later 18mm nose bearing.
I can modify A series 14mm mainshafts to take the 18mm bearing, this avoids buying a new aftermarket one. PM me for details, or you can buy one from Mini King.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Turns out its actually got a 3.44 in it. My mistake haha.

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If its yours, customize it !

Been a while but thought I'd chime in here for anyone who reads this.
The car could run on variable boost anywhere from 12psi-22psi ranging anywhere from 150HP to 250HP and I spent years fine tuning the suspension, alignment and bracing the subframe where needed. There was no subframe/chassis 'problem'

I've had multiple minis ranging from 10x4.5 to 13x7's and in my expexerience a mini running 10's will handle and drive better than a bigger car and with an A032R are not 'under tyred'. You save 5Kg per corner switching from a 13" to 10" setup. That's 20Kg of unsprung weight.

Nick Swift even commented in his last goodwood video running the Longman Clubman (which must run on 12's) that it doesn't handle as well as a mini on 10's. The extra sidewall is part of the suspension package, ads compliance and reduces weight.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484