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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2013 5:33 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
I picked up an Accuspark Stealth Blackbox advance and dwell adjustment module.

It will adjust the distributor's advance and dwell while the engine is running or otherwise, with up to seven individual change points for each.

Why? Because technology is cheap these days, and once upon a time I paid a lot of money to have a dizzy recurved. Now I can do this at will. Its kind of like the fruition of a long standing wish...Will it last? I don't know...lets find out together....

I won't try to explain how it fits up and works when the best explanation comes from a series of very short videos at the link below. Suffice to say there are four wires, red and black for 12 volts and ground, white and green to sit between the distributor to coil connection. I will mount mine under the dash as I have a tacho run I can tap into for the green and white distributor to coil connection. Very simple to install.

Image

Included in the kit is the module (which is connected to a PC via a USB cable), the VisBasic software, electrical connectors and a short length of stainless steel tie wire (for locking the advance in your dizzy). You need to have an electronic module fitted to the distributor as well. Whether this is supposed to be Accuspark or otherwise I am unsure at this time. I have a SimonBBC Powerspark module, so we shall find out...

They come out of the UK, but are unreasonably expensive to post direct from Accuspark at about 50 bucks for a little box :shock: The US seems cheapest so far.. Cost for the box itself is between 135 and 185, depending on where you pick it up from.

I'll post up more images as I install the unit over the next little while.
I will be fitting it to my Mk2 Cooper S engine using a 29D mech advance dizzy.


Image

The board inside is simple, and has been dipped in a rubber based compound to minimise damage from corrosion and vibration. This can be useful in preventing a little reverse engineering as well...

It could certainly be made a little more low profile with a lot of wasted space inside the box, but this may also aid in effective heat dissipation.

I'll let you know more as I fit it up.

Image

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2013 6:12 pm 
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Verrrry interestinggggg :P

I have visions of a locked Nissan Pulsar dizzy and one of these things, no more welding up advance slots and playing with advance springs! :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2013 7:08 pm 
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Very keen to see how this goes. Was eyeballing these a while back, but was a little put off by the lack of any written experience....couldn't find a damn thing anywhere.

Well done that man.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2013 11:29 am 
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I was looking at doing this too - I also have a SimonBBC module, but I don't think that would be an issue, Once I get my gearbox back together, I will probably have a go as well. Report on any mistakes you make so I don't do them too ;)


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2013 9:42 pm 
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Location: Sydney - strangely, I am glad of the sight of hills!!
i'm tossing up my options at the moment - fully adjustable sounds like my kind of thing.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2013 10:36 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Irish Yobbo wrote:
I was looking at doing this too - I also have a SimonBBC module, but I don't think that would be an issue, Once I get my gearbox back together, I will probably have a go as well. Report on any mistakes you make so I don't do them too ;)



You're right, I can't even see why a set of points wouldn't do. The box takes the load of the coil, and the points are simply relegated to only a trigger role. I might fit this up tomorrow...

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 3:08 pm 
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I've hit a wall at the moment with conflicting fitting instructions. I have my own idea of how it is meant to be, but I will wait for an official confirmation from the supplier. I've emailed both the supplier and the maker directly.

The instruction from the official website video ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8tg4xy0cnU ) states that the wiring should be as below, which makes no sense and includes a ground loop. But it comes from the maker himself!

Option 1 - (EDIT: Don't do this)

Image

The Australian distributor however supplied instructions that make more sense, but flip even the wire on the -ve side of the coil! Odd!

Option 2 - (EDIT: Correct Version)

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 4:08 pm 
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While I wait in anticipation, against my better judgement I have prepped the wiring loom to accept the second option from the supplier (not the maker). If I have to change it its relatively simple to run an extra pair of wires to the distributor. The tacho already has a wire to the dizzy from the coil as well as a switched +ve and -ve feed. The box will be wired into the right side of this connection block and the whole lot discretely hidden behind the trim. The box will be inconspicuously mounted beneath the tray.

I forsee another issue, in that the distributor (which senses the current pulse to the distributor to count the RPM) will not sense any current since the module will be doing the switching on behalf of the points. This means no more current of any great consequence passing through the distributor wire via the tacho.

I have a clever plan however. The current must go somewhere, and I am judging it will pass through the black ground wire from the module to the chassis. I will try wiring the coil through this wire and have it catch the current pulse there.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 5:08 pm 
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I am thinking of getting the 123 distributor... Pricey but seems good

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 6:07 pm 
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brett wrote:
I am thinking of getting the 123 distributor... Pricey but seems good



They are nice, I would have liked one, but I've not liked the price at about 500 dollars.

These days $100 gets you a new distributor as a repro 23d, 25d, 45d, with or without vacuum advance, and with a custom curve of your choosing. If you add another 20 dollars you can have a high energy module as well to run a high output coil such as the GT40R.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 9:52 pm 
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While I am waiting on the official advice from the maker, I took the 29D apart to lock up the advance mech.

Nothing too tricky. The supplied stainless steel tie wire works fine.

The good Dr Mini took the 29D apart for me to replace a very worn bosh and spindle. Turns as sweet as a nut now, thank Kevin.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 8:38 pm 
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I don't see how this system could work if it were wired up as in the 1st diagram, the second one makes a lot more sense.
In the 2nd one the Stealth box has a power and an earth supply wire, it uses the wire from the distributor as a sensor to let it know the position and speed of the engine and the other wire goes to the -ve connector on the coil. This controls the coil and your timing.
Good luck with it. It will be interesting to see how it goes.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 8:44 pm 
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Yeah I agree. The only question is the white and green polarity from the local supplier as it is so very different. However, I've wired set my connections to line up with the second method.

I might be going crazy, but the first is how he describes the first method in the video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8tg4xy0cnU

Let me know if I am going mad however.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 5:54 am 
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Very interesting .... looking on in interest

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 8:01 pm 
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Option two, (as per the supplier's, not the maker's instructions) was the go. Odd that the maker had the wrong instructions, but there you go! :shock: Accuspark has been notified, so its up to him to fix it up.....

Well it's all installed. The wiring sneaks in behind the tachometer, and cannot be seen. Its very lucky that my tacho is the inductive type - needing a feed from the coil as well as one back to the dizzy. Extremely fortuitous 8) It meant I didn't have to do anything to the loom, the +ve, -ve, neg coil and dizzy wire were there ready to go. I placed the blackbox with double sided tape up beneath the parcel tray with the USB facing out. Sweet fit out for a Mini I would rather not hack into.

Image

The distributor was swapped out from a 23D repro back to the stock 29D which has had its weights bound as shown in the posts above. Now it is relegated to the simple role of crank angle sensor.

Old(ish)

Image

New(ish)

Image

I disconnected the blackbox by bridging the wire from the coil back to the dizzy, warmed up the car and set the timing to zero degrees. You can also set the dizzy at a static of perhaps 10 degrees, and subtract it from your total curve.

Once connected up to the computer (the software is already installed), connecting the device up to the USB and turning on the ignition will cause it to detect and load the device driver. This can take some time for windows to fiddle about with. You might need to restart the computer as well so windows can feel all updated and in control of itself :roll: However, once this is done, connecting up the blackbox first and then opening the Accuspark software will have the device brought online. Immediately the device will load up its default curve.

Image

I had problems in that the clever goose who balanced my flywheel balance the thing by strategically removing metal where my 1|4 TDC timing mark is (image below shows the hole....)
Fortuitously (!!) I used the new device to my advantage! I set it to 10 degrees advance across the range, and set my dizzy in place at the 10 degree mark, which meant when returned to zero reference, so did the timing. Win :mrgreen:

Image

The software has its default curve, it looks nice and safe, so I have stuck to that one for the moment. I'll update the curve with one I work out in the next couple of days. For now I'm pretty pleased with just having it working so simply.

There is a number of buttons down the left side of the screen. They're fairly self explanatory:

Install will install the blackbox drivers;
Load will upload the stored curve from the car onto the computer;
Default will return the default curve (but not upload it);
Realtime will bring up a databox with particulars of the engine parameters at that moment in time (image below); and
Store will upload (save) your new curve onto the blackbox device.

Image

The long and short is that the box works as claimed. I have set a number of different timings and compared them to the timing light readings and so far it seems to be quite accurate. Changing the curve while the engine is running is not a problem. You can hear the engine note change as the new curve is loaded in.

One downside, the software can be a little buggy. If you open up the Realtime screen, close it and then try to adjust and store your curve, the software will freeze up. The engine running isn't affected however, just comms with the blackbox. Simple enough to close and reopen the software again to get restore communications. Only a slight problem if you have entered in all your new curve data, you will just need to enter it in again. Not a big problem however, and probably more related to windows than the device.

I'm chuffed it installed so easily, it works as claimed, and is a cinch to use. I have not asked if it is compatible with high energy ignitions. If it is I will upgrade my coil to a low-ohm electronic ignition coil. I'll let you know...

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