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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 6:36 pm 
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oldblade wrote:
did you get it to work

if not this may help

http://scn.sap.com/people/firoz.ashraf2 ... -windows-7


Tried that page before
Cant access the download
Have a go to see what i mean

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 7:04 pm 
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Location: Cherrybrook NSW
GundyGuy wrote:
oldblade wrote:
did you get it to work

if not this may help

http://scn.sap.com/people/firoz.ashraf2 ... -windows-7


Tried that page before
Cant access the download
Have a go to see what i mean


Ok uninstall the app
then reinstalled by right clicking on install and run as administrator
then once it's installed
go to the icon again right click and run as administrator
a few popups click agree and you should be on your way

plug in the USB cable make sure you give access to the USB to the virtual machine


Tell me how you go

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 1:02 am 
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I don't think it will eork on usb 3 ports

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 6:18 am 
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Lillee got it to work on his MacBook, recent ones are USB 3.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 11:14 am 
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I have it working on a MacBook pro and air

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 5:14 pm 
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Finally got the USB to see the box
So its programming time
But a little confused
DrMini sent me his latest MAP but i thought the dwell should be 60 and a bit lower at lower rpms
Also whats the max original advance the 29D4 had on a MK2 cooper S
Also whats the RPM SYN mean
And also there are no fitting instruction other then whats been post here

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 5:52 pm 
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Max dwell is 90- advance.
Rpm syn is the rpm that the box takes over from the dizzy sensor.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2016 5:15 pm 
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Well i finally got it all installed
Went for a run and feels like it needs a little bit more advance
From what old mate says on the Accuspark YouTube videos if you alter the fixed advance setting it steps all the others up the same amount
Does this sound correct
Also went for a second run and the car cut out just around the corner and wouldn't fire up and run
Got it home and found a secret switch to isolate the ign power that had burnt out
So in with a new switch and hey presto
Now time to fiddle with the settings

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2016 7:30 pm 
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here comes the fun part

make small changes at different rev ranges and see the difference
I found setting mine at 1000rpm 5 advance then growing to 4500rpm 25 advance

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 4:58 pm 
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Location: Wollongong
GundyGuy wrote:
Well i finally got it all installed
Went for a run and feels like it needs a little bit more advance
From what old mate says on the Accuspark YouTube videos if you alter the fixed advance setting it steps all the others up the same amount
Does this sound correct


Simplist approach is once dissys mech advance is tied off/disabled set the engines timing at zero with a timing light without the box installed (or with the box settings also on zero). Then put your values in. Then you'll never need to move the dissy again, simply add to all points on the curve if you want advance across the range. If you start to get pinging within a certain rev range just reduce those points only. A long hill to drive up is handy for testing.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 7:52 am 
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Im having a lot of problems starting mine on cold start por spark someone told me i need to install a switch for start on the black box what is this for ?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 10:09 am 
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Black box needs 10V or more to work.
I had the same problem, recognised by accuspark. They sent me a switch and loom to bypass it. However, since refitting my Lucas starter I've not needed to use it.
See the other recent thread for details. When I rebuild my son's car it is getting a 35mm2 battery cable.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 11:56 am 
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My Starter Solenoid has the 12 volt terminal for starting
So it sends 12 volts to the coil only while starting
Made a world of difference to starting
Also the black box make cold starts better i have found

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 10:39 am 
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I've got my Blackbox unit running well in my car now. The only problem is the tacho. Does it make more sense to connect the tacho signal to the coil or the distributor wire? I have a modern TIM tacho.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 11:30 am 
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If tacho surges full scale during cranking accuspark told me this is normal.
I fitted a NC relay to the tacho pulse wire so it drops the signal during cranking.

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