Hi guys,
Need some help with a MK2 Cooper S I just acquired. As the heading states it is regarding authentication. It has all the featured a late 1970 MK2 S should have down to the vapor line brackets in the boot (all as should be). The only thing missing, and it is the big part in this jigsaw, is no body number on the radiator shroud to match the tag. Any experts our there able to shed some light on the matter? This model also did not have the paint code on the tag.

Cheers in advance
Dan

What about the stamping in the drip rail, they should be just about above the passenger bonnet hinge.

The paint code was not put onto the later ID/Compliance plates. They were affixed as a sticker in roughly the position where the old firewall mounted ID tags were prior to 1969.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

45 years down the track it is uncommon for the stamps on the shroud to be either missing or very faint. Some cars had heavily struck stamps whilst others didn't. A good tip is to check under the shroud where the number should be, often you can see a reverse image but nothing from the top. The other issue is it might have had accident damage at some point?
If you cannot find it look for other indicators such as the drip rail stamp above the passenger side hinge, fuel pump breather, fuel vapour tags, thick brake pedal, glue under parcel shelf, boot board brackets, boot liner holes etc..etc...

A late 1970 MK2 S has a compliance plate located behind the brake booster and reads YG2S4 2xxx.
The 4 rivet plates started 1/1970 around YG2S4 1400 to 11/1970 YG2S4 2700 then they went to 2 rivets.

In the middle of 1970 the 2/06 was stamped into the firewall bulkhead behind the master cylinders as opposed to the drip rail.

The 2/06 YDO body code is usually picked up during a resto because they are either hidden under the paint stickers on the firewall or hidden under heaps of paint in the drip rail above the wiper motor.

Thanks for all the replies.
fuel vapour tags, glue under parcel shelf, boot board brackets, boot liner holes etc are all there just the body number markings are not. She's in undercoat atm so hoping with a clean up something will show up.
Any ideas regarding that paint code? There's some blue and some white showing up but I really was hoping to restore to original paint. With out that code I'm somewhat stuck.

It was on a sticker behind the master cylinders probably long gone.
Ken Nelson from Mini Automotive had a master list years ago. When I quoted my car number he then proceeded to tell me the colour and engine number. Mine is a MK1 S, I don't know if he had the MK2s on his list.
Tel: (07) 3281 4255
Email: enquiries@miniauto.com.au
Website: http://www.miniauto.com.au

I have a couple of hundred cars on my list and it appears that colours came out in batches. Roughly what month or number is yours? Most Dark Blue's were (Indigo Blue) or Light blue's (Powder Blue)
There is a thread on colours here viewtopic.php?f=2&t=87719&p=965272&hilit=colour#p965272

You could also send watto a PM. He has a very comprehensive list which your car may be on already. He will keep your details confidential if your require.

Hi Dann,
If you send me a PM I will look up the Watto list that gtogreen was referring to. I actually maintain that list and I have just updated it with about 30 new cars that we did not already have on file.

Regards
John

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1965 MK1 English Morris Cooper S (Downton)
1967 MK1 Morris Cooper S
1972 Clubman GT (6/72 Cadiz)
1968 MG Midget

If it's a '70 Mk II. They were Baltic blue, if it's the darker colour.

Is your blue a dark or light colour. Just had a look at the blues for 1970 and there are 3 light blues listed.
Cadet Blue, Riviera Blue and Stella Blue. Some info here-
http://www.ozcooper.com.au/paint_codes.htm
viewtopic.php?t=66469

I stand corrected on the Baltic blue. I was just going off my list of what people have painted there cars and there are a few Indigo and Powder Blues listed. They must be the more popular colours to respray.

Resurrecting an old tread. Sorry guys, work took over and the mini took a back seat to life. I did however manage to locate the 2/06 and body number stamp on the fire wall a as typical MK2 cooper S had a week ago. Obviously very happy that popped up as wasnt sure it was there. Now the trick is to preserve what is left.

So I have a question for all the experts out there regarding the body number being 501 (+\- 10) units less then what is on the ID tag... is this always the case or are there exceptions to this rule? Also any tricks to removing rust old paint/undercoat around the body stamp area without destroying what’s left? 2/06 is visible enough to make it out but the body number is hard to read and I am concerned I will loose them. Any ideas how to preserve but also ensure they are visible when restoration is complete as paint will surely cover them.

Regards
Dan

If you have a look at the registers you will see that the 500 difference is very rare and being out by 20 or more is not uncommon. More than 50 out then you would need to ask why and look more closely at the stamping and panels.
The 2/06 is something that should be hard to read as it was in place before painting occured and is sometimes under the paint sticker.
The YG2S4 number should be easier to read as it was stamped after painting.
A respray can easily fill in the stampings and make them hard to read.

Thank you for the reply. They are all hard to read. The 2/06 is visialble enough to make it out, if not preserved now im concerned that will be gone in time also. The other numbers are semi readable. I can make out 1 or two digits but the others are very hard to read. Really need to get on top of this before it’s too late so any info on that side of things would be great also.
What is the general consensus for leaving that part of the fire wall (stamped body numbers) in bare metal with clear coat so it is visible once restored? Not what I would normally do being it was not done by the factory that way but can not think of another option to make it visible once complete. Obviously this stamping is what defines it as a genuine MKII Cooper S. Without it, to me, it is just another replica.

I wouldn't be concerned doing that (leave it bare and clear over the top). Alternatively, a better solution would be to clean back to bare metal and then put a thin coat of body colour over it so the numbers are still visible. In my view either option would not detract from the value and, in fact, could increase it as it improves identification.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Numbers in drip rail say it all and mine dont line up exact 2/06 xxx No compliance plate as a 69.
There was an old guy worked at the factory even told me my car was Sapphire Blue.
Hope he is still around