Hi all
I have an 850 that looks original from the outside other than for cooper S wheels.
The inside is almost all original except the front seat covers and the Rod Change gear lever.
The engine is a 1275 (1100S) and I have 7-1/2" discs on the front.

The dilemma is, I would like the interior to look more original by having the "pudding stirrer" gear lever.
I believe the mokes had a shorter version of the rod change mechanism that would move the gear lever further forward, or really shorten the existing rod change mechanism and fit a longer/bent gear lever.
Alternately fit a Poverty Pack clubman gearbox. Are these all 4 speed synchro, and will by gear set fit it OK. I also have a 2.95:1 diff ratio on order that I would fit at the same time.

What to do ?
Phil

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Moke rodchange shifter was not right forward, like the puddin' stirrer or earlier magic wand lever are. So won't look right.
Yes your gear set will fit in a remote 4 synchro box (except reverse, use the remote shift one that fits).

Personally, I would fit an 850/Deluxe diff housing onto a 4 synchro remote box, and use the 850 magic wand lever. It is a more durable setup than the puddin' stirrer shift, which sits in a bent tin plate that wears badly, with no provision for adjustment.
You just need to check the diff bearing bore sizes and alignment when fitting, it was very common back in the 60s to go the other way (remote shift onto an 850 box).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

and I will take those horrible drilled wheels (shirley that must weaken them?) off your hands so that you can go back to stock

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So the 3 sync diff housings fit fine on the 4 sync boxes?

I have a 3 sync remote housing but the locating dowels are in a different location to the 4 sync box. Can the dowels be moved without much effort? (I know the housing and box are lined bored together and might not fit together well)

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Maybe, could you bolt the cover on with bearings in situ and no dowels, check position of everything, side covers etc, then 'carefully' drill the dowel holes. Just an idea. ??

You can remove the dowels it works fine without them.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yes, use the diff bearings to centralise the diff cover housing to gearbox housing. It's not super critical, so long as the bearing isn't able to spin in the housing

You can also drill out the bolt holes a little if needed for alignment.
The hardest bit (sometimes) is getting the bearing bores both round and the right size. You may need 2 gaskets, or none. One remote box I did a few years ago needed (after bore measurement) the diff housing set up on the mill at a slight angle, and the gasket face then milled flat by a specific amount.
Yes it is now working fine, with 1 gasket.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yes, those holes have always worried me
If you had a set of replacement wheels the same size and colour I might consider it

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Thanks Kevin
Excellent advice as always.
Are there any issues with the drop gears/flywheel/clutch housing that I should consider ?

I have placed a couple of Wanted adds for gearbox and diff housing.

If anyone has some parts I would be greatly interested.

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You should get the matching flywheel housing, but your rodchange one (not A+ type) fits a 4 synchro remote box. Just check the idler gear and outrigger bearing don't bind when both dowels are in.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Can I use my rod change drive shaft & pot joints with the 850 diff housing.
Will my "diff cover assembly" bolt up to the 850 diff housing OK (all assuming I use my existing diff assembly).

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Need to fit the 2 pot joint type output shafts to the 850 diff. Or swap a complete later diff in.
Yes the 850 diff housing fits on either any 3 synchro box, or 4 synchro remote box. Bolt pattern is the same. Check bearing housing bores as I said above.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well, I have fitted an 850 diff housing to a 4 synchro box.
Put the gear lever in and selected all of the gears.
I was surprised by how little travel is required by the "pudding stirrer" compared to what I am accustomed to with my current Rod Change box.
Here is what the pudding stirrer achieves.



By comparison my rod change is about 180mm 1st to 2nd and it is a much shorter lever ?

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It's a fairly quick shift, sure, but the gear stick feels kinda flexy and any movement in your engine mounts are amplified, but I don't mind it on mine. I'm planning to add some lower engine steadies to help