Hi, I am just checking that there are 1" and 1.25" studs, 1/4" phillips screws (with wedged spacer on the upper hinge), as well as a bolt on the bottom hinge fixing the hinges to the door and body. I can't quite believe it was designed this way but probably was.

Steve.

I can't remember how long the studs should be but here are the depths of the holes. Looking at my photos I had about 3/4" of thread sticking out, so 1" and 1.25" sounds about right. The only depth you really need to worry about is the screw/bolt that goes into the leading edge of the door. It is something like 3/4" long. The tapered washer goes on the top hinge - rear stud. Great idea that was.


If your doing hinges there is some info here that may help.
http://www.drjing.com/Mini/BLOG/DoorHang.htm
http://www.drjing.com/Mini/TechFiles/HingeRebuild.htm

Thanks for that; sounds about right. But is there meant to be a bolt on the lower hinge closest the pin, body side (as my car seemed to have) or a stud? It doesn't really matter but I'd prefer to have it as it is meant to be....

Hows this

That's good, thanks. But it's if anything more confusing! I found all the screws to be the same size, about 20mm or so... and the end studs were the same size in the upper/lower hinges, as were the central two studs (1.25"). Is there really meant to be a wedged washer in the upper end stud?

I am also about to replace doors to body; also interested in these details as I know all the studs are different lengths - due to having wedged spacers on upper hinges at least.
My main question is about the setscrew (top and bottom hinges) that is visible in the door leading edge - is it pan head or hex?

This is from the most accurate of the round-nose Mini parts books. Note that what's missing from the diagram but present in the list of part numbers is the large thin flat washer (MYH103) that goes behind the rearmost stud of the upper hinge, visible in Greg's hand-drawn diagram. This helps to spread the load in an area of the door skin that's relatively unsupported as it's a long way from the door frame. Apparently these sometimes fall down deep in the door pocket when hinges are removed and are then left off on reassembly.

I can interpret the bolt, washer, screw, etc. specifications from the part numbers if it's of interest.

_________________
ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

I'm not surprised it's that complicated. Is it possible to determine the lengths of the screws and studs? I'm replacing the studs.

Is this the code?
For PMZ410 and PMZ412:
P= pan head
M= metal thread ( yes/no?)
Z= zinc plated
4 = diameter by 1/16th inches
10= length by 1/16th inches
If so then I have an answer on the type of screw on the door front edge.
But length of the studs isn't shown as they are part of the hinges.

Yes, but bizarrely the lengths of screws are in 1/16", bolt in 1/8"
PMZ410 Pan head, 5/8" long
PMZ412 Phillips 3/4"
HZS405 Hex Bolt 5/8" long.

I just bought 1/4 unf x 2" long grade 5 plated hex screws, screwed them in and cut to length.
(Edit) I cut the heads off to make them studs.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

According to the BMC Australia Standards document:

PMZ410 is Recessed Pan-Head Screw Unified, Zinc Plated, 1/4" diam x 5/8" long, UNF 28 tpi
PMZ412 is the same but 3/4" long

I haven't found a separate part number for the studs.

_________________
ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Yes, you could just use bolts but that's too easy and sensible.

What does a "Recessed Pan-Head" look like?

_________________
ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43