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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 7:44 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2013 10:15 pm
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Location: Sydney
Spent the last few days stripping the car down to a shell to sort out some little rust issues..wish me luck. :-)

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 7:53 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Wed Aug 06, 2008 10:14 am
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Location: Sydney
Good luck!

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ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 8:14 pm 
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Location: Newcastle
0_o

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

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http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=93352

If I'm carrying on like a pork-chop, I'm having a great time.

If I go very quiet there's a very good chance I broke something.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2017 2:43 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 11:32 am
Posts: 12390
Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Love an Optimist :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-f1B1vs7Og

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2017 7:41 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 8:17 am
Posts: 1964
Location: san remo nsw
A bit of race tape and a can of supercheap auto proof coat.
Easy.
:wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2017 8:31 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2013 10:15 pm
Posts: 77
Location: Sydney
peterb wrote:
A bit of race tape and a can of supercheap auto proof coat.
Easy.
:wink:


Suspect I'll also need a small tub of silly putty too.....

Joking and mindless optimism aside, we know that there is a ton of work to do here. Current plan is to really investigate how much work is going to be involved in fixing the shell and make a decision whether it is worth it.

Current list is replacement of scuttle, filler panels, one full inner wing, A-panel, front end, both fenders, and a host of repairs around the toeboard, sills and rear r/h upper arch.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 10:01 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2017 3:30 pm
Posts: 31
Oh wow.
keep posting please. i wanted to know where minis rust out and how bad.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 10:40 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2016 5:51 am
Posts: 83
Location: Melbourne's Western Suburbs
Miraz wrote:
peterb wrote:
A bit of race tape and a can of supercheap auto proof coat.
Easy.
:wink:


Suspect I'll also need a small tub of silly putty too.....

Joking and mindless optimism aside, we know that there is a ton of work to do here. Current plan is to really investigate how much work is going to be involved in fixing the shell and make a decision whether it is worth it.

Current list is replacement of scuttle, filler panels, one full inner wing, A-panel, front end, both fenders, and a host of repairs around the toeboard, sills and rear r/h upper arch.


Post Pics, can't see your current image????


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:25 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 8:17 am
Posts: 1964
Location: san remo nsw
By the look of it, it's a Rover so there could be the odd front cut kicking about, might be a way?
Also looks like someone has been there before, welding big bits in.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 10:38 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 08, 2004 9:27 pm
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
did it come from England or Japan? they put salt on the roads in Northern Japan...

Aaron was getting rid of a Rover shell a few weeks ago

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:19 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2013 10:15 pm
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Location: Sydney
It's an English car and it is has been bodged and patched all over the place - and the more we strip it down, the more patchwork we are finding.

The left side of the car isn't bad, and looks like it has had some proper resto work in the past, but the rest of the car is a patchwork of nasty bodgery.

The front of both inner wings has been rusted out and replaced with dog ends of scrap metal, all four corners of the floor and sections of the lower firewall have been patched roughly, the right hand rear wheel arch is a bondo sculpture that should be preserved purely on it's own creative merit and there is some minor perforation of the boot floor.

Everything else seems to be in reasonable condition, but we still have some more digging to do yet. We should have both of the subframes off in the next few days, and should know where we stand at that point.

A new shell might be an option worth looking at - we have a complete inner wing panel, and a complete floor including the inner and outer sills that would address most of the major issues that we've found - the rear wheel arch and front end is going to require a bit more work.

Reposting the inner wing picture, will add some more pictures this week...


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 11:48 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 11:01 am
Posts: 456
Location: TOWNSVILLE NQ
When I see photos like that, I feel blessed. Mine has no rust at all, just need to get 5 coats of paint off, but my paint & panel skills are limited.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 10:57 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 5:03 pm
Posts: 2729
Location: Out in the shed cleaning up my own mess.
Miraz wrote:
It's an English car and it is has been bodged and patched all over the place - and the more we strip it down, the more patchwork we are finding.


My advice, stop all work immediately. Push it over a cliff.
I spent 3 years fixing my Mk 2 Jag, which I believed initially to be "rust free". Edzachary the same scenario.
Find a better shell and retain your sanity.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - all painted up, ready for fit out.
1969 Cooper S Mk2 - claimed by 2nd. born
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 4:59 am 
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1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 8:17 am
Posts: 1964
Location: san remo nsw
My advice is cut out all the rust.........keep the rust and get rid of the rest. :-)
Actually another shell sounds the only logical way forward.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 7:47 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2015 9:38 am
Posts: 1503
Location: Brandy Hill, NSW
You should be able to save the suspension, brakes etc :!:


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