What sort of RPM are we talking about before the non cooper s points are likely to 'bounce'?

In the long run, I think I will convert this distributor to electronic, then decide if programmable advance is required after that.

From memory I think around 6500 rpm in a 25D with stock Lucas points.
Bear in mind genuine Lucas is no more, points and condensers are all aftermarket now, Bosch supplied ones are Chinese.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I can change my car back to points in about 5 mins. I have another base plate with points and condensor fitted. Only 2 screws to swap the plates over.

Is the stealth "blackbox" still available ? Their UK web site list as currently not available.

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1970 Mk2 Cooper S under restoration

I got mine from Tony (Convertible Mini)

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I also got mine from tony but I will be replacing it soon so it might be up for sale

I am moving with the time away from windows 7 to the new 123 Bluetooth unit

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1968 Morris Mini Cooper S

I put in a one of these new after market distributors, the one I bought just didn't have enough total advance. I noticed that Mini Spares where advertising a version that has been graphed to suit their EVO1 cam, I though this was more likely to be closer to what a mild street engine needs today. Personally if you are happy with the engine performance I would just swap the points out.


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There is also the Aldon Amethyst system which is similar to the blackbox module but it also has vacuum advance if you need it. Cost me around AUD250 landed when I got mine. Wiring is pretty much identical to the blackbox but you can dynamically set timing and monitor as well but once again I think it is only windows7 but you would need to check.
Cheers
Rod

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1967 New British Racing Green Mk1 Cooper S, 1967 Lake Green 1275 MG Midget, 1969 Jet Red / Crystal White Mk2 Cooper S, 1972 Gambier Turquoise Clubman GT (ex police), 1972 Camino Gold Clubman GT, 2009 JCW Challenge Edition, Megane RS265, Clio RS220.

Realistically many options available - Aldon, 123, Swiftune CSI, or even just sticking an electronic module in yours in place of the points.

I'd almost just get rid of the points and run your dizzy. It'd make life much easier and more reliable whilst changing the smallest amount of parts possible.

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Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

One of the main advantages gained by changing to an electronic (or optical) trigger in place of points is solving the issue of bearing wear in on old dizzy that causes spark scatter... You can change the shaft bearing (if you can find a replacement for an older dizzy) but a non points trigger can be an easier solution.

If you go for the full electronic ignition then, as well as a more flexible timing curve solution you will get better dwell control.

Cheers, Ian

A timing belt drive kit on the cam gives negligible spark scatter compared to a chain drive without tensioner.
However, it's hard to buy good quality belts now.
Most are Chinese made and I found them a loose fit compared to the Pirelli Dayco originals which are NLA now.
Mini Mania USA sell a Japanese 'Gates' Kevlar one, but they are over US$120 + postage. They say good for 50,000 miles. Unavailable from Gates here, I tried. They have no record of it.

I have run the Gates one for 10 years now. But it's only done 15,000 miles.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.