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Correct master cylinder for MK2 2/70 Cooper S
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=95760		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  MiniMat [ Wed Feb 28, 2018 10:50 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Correct master cylinder for MK2 2/70 Cooper S
From the look of this thread, I have an original clutch master cylinder and an updated alloy brake MC.

Can anyone confirm the original colour / finish to the cast iron versions from factory?
Author:  drmini in aust [ Wed Feb 28, 2018 4:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Correct master cylinder for MK2 2/70 Cooper S
Iron oxide, aka rust. :)
Author:  John Smidt [ Wed Feb 28, 2018 10:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Correct master cylinder for MK2 2/70 Cooper S
MiniMat wrote:
From the look of this thread, I have an original clutch master cylinder and an updated alloy brake MC.

Can anyone confirm the original colour / finish to the cast iron versions from factory?


They came from the factory as plain cast Iron, then they slowly formed a rusty appearance,
if you want to maintain the original finish then have them hydro blasted then clear lacquer them
Author:  MiniMat [ Thu Mar 01, 2018 6:04 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Correct master cylinder for MK2 2/70 Cooper S
Thanks John and drmini.

Seems like an odd way for them to leave the factory. No wonder so many were painted afterwards, black seems to have been the most common.

Cheers
Mat
Author:  cgo [ Sun Mar 18, 2018 9:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Correct master cylinder for MK2 2/70 Cooper S
Restoring a 9/70 MCS. Today's job was to disassemble both master cylinders. Both cylinders are of the plastic reservoir type and they have seen better days. One is a Girlock cast iron unit and the other one is a Lockheed alloy model, both have 0.7" bores and both have been re-sleeved in stainless steel. Inspection after disassembly shows the sleeves to be in good condition, difficult to believe from the initial inspection. The alloy unit was probably used as the brake master as it had the slow return valve installed, but this is only my assumption. The Girlock unit was easily disassembled with the piston and components sliding out quite easily. The Lockheed unit proved more of a challenge. I could not budge the internals, the only way I could remove the piston was to tap the hole where the piston rod fits into the piston and use a piece of booker rod, socket, nut and washer to extract it. I have bought 2 new reservoirs and will fit new kits soon.
BTW, I also have a 9/69 MCS. The brake master is a tin type Lockheed unit and the clutch master cylinder is a Lockheed 0.7" bore alloy unit.
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