Ausmini
It is currently Thu May 02, 2024 4:33 pm

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 25 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2017 10:31 am 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:04 pm
Posts: 6654
Location: Melbourne, VIC
gtogreen1969 wrote:
hugbilly wrote:
Lead content[edit]
To enhance the machinability of brass, lead is often added in concentrations of around 2%. Since lead has a lower melting point than the other constituents of the brass, it tends to migrate towards the grain boundaries in the form of globules as it cools from casting. The pattern the globules form on the surface of the brass increases the available lead surface area which in turn affects the degree of leaching. In addition, cutting operations can smear the lead globules over the surface. These effects can lead to significant lead leaching from brasses of comparatively low lead content.[10]

Silicon is an alternative to lead; however, when silicon is used in a brass alloy, the scrap must never be mixed with leaded brass scrap because of contamination and safety problems.[11]

In October 1999 the California State Attorney General sued 13 key manufacturers and distributors over lead content. In laboratory tests, state researchers found the average brass key, new or old, exceeded the California Proposition 65 limits by an average factor of 19, assuming handling twice a day.[12] In April 2001 manufacturers agreed to reduce lead content to 1.5%, or face a requirement to warn consumers about lead content. Keys plated with other metals are not affected by the settlement, and may continue to use brass alloys with higher percentage of lead content.[13][14]

Also in California, lead-free materials must be used for "each component that comes into contact with the wetted surface of pipes and pipe fittings, plumbing fittings and fixtures." On January 1, 2010, the maximum amount of lead in "lead-free brass" in California was reduced from 4% to 0.25% lead. The common practice of using pipes for electrical grounding is discouraged, as it accelerates lead corrosion.[15][16]
?


He's referring to this statement earlier in this thread.

mini210 wrote:
Whats with the Lead warning on the brass components? :shock:

Contains lead to avoid static??

_________________
ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2017 3:02 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:19 pm
Posts: 4354
Location: Wollongong, NSW
gtogreen1969 wrote:
hugbilly wrote:
Lead content[edit]
To enhance the machinability of brass, lead is often added in concentrations of around 2%. Since lead has a lower melting point than the other constituents of the brass, it tends to migrate towards the grain boundaries in the form of globules as it cools from casting. The pattern the globules form on the surface of the brass increases the available lead surface area which in turn affects the degree of leaching. In addition, cutting operations can smear the lead globules over the surface. These effects can lead to significant lead leaching from brasses of comparatively low lead content.[10]

Silicon is an alternative to lead; however, when silicon is used in a brass alloy, the scrap must never be mixed with leaded brass scrap because of contamination and safety problems.[11]

In October 1999 the California State Attorney General sued 13 key manufacturers and distributors over lead content. In laboratory tests, state researchers found the average brass key, new or old, exceeded the California Proposition 65 limits by an average factor of 19, assuming handling twice a day.[12] In April 2001 manufacturers agreed to reduce lead content to 1.5%, or face a requirement to warn consumers about lead content. Keys plated with other metals are not affected by the settlement, and may continue to use brass alloys with higher percentage of lead content.[13][14]

Also in California, lead-free materials must be used for "each component that comes into contact with the wetted surface of pipes and pipe fittings, plumbing fittings and fixtures." On January 1, 2010, the maximum amount of lead in "lead-free brass" in California was reduced from 4% to 0.25% lead. The common practice of using pipes for electrical grounding is discouraged, as it accelerates lead corrosion.[15][16]
?

The sticker on the box the valve came in had a warning about it containing lead. I guess that'll explain why there is lead in the brass

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 12:12 pm 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:04 pm
Posts: 6654
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Any one looking to make their own pump might like to consider one of these, now selling for $110 including postage.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/122704671903?ul_noapp=true

_________________
ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 4:30 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2015 9:38 am
Posts: 1507
Location: Brandy Hill, NSW
winabbey wrote:
Any one looking to make their own pump might like to consider one of these, now selling for $110 including postage.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/122704671903?ul_noapp=true

Can anyone supply feedback on the useage and results!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 6:53 pm 
Offline
SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
Posts: 18854
Location: Under the bonnet son!
Hell yeah. I would do that option in a second. Fill and drain back, pressure gauge included. Just needs the pressure chuck to be fitted in. Gold!

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 7:01 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 3:07 pm
Posts: 5071
Location: The Internet
cooperess wrote:
winabbey wrote:
Any one looking to make their own pump might like to consider one of these, now selling for $110 including postage.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/122704671903?ul_noapp=true

Can anyone supply feedback on the useage and results!
Mine is the cheaper version of that one and works a treat. I was going to buy that type but it was double the price of mine when i was looking. As long as the pump seals are replacable it is well worth it.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 8:46 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 5:28 pm
Posts: 74
Location: Hobart, TAS
cooperess wrote:
winabbey wrote:
Any one looking to make their own pump might like to consider one of these, now selling for $110 including postage.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/122704671903?ul_noapp=true

Can anyone supply feedback on the useage and results!


I used this, or a very similar, pump with great results. I modified the set-up so I could keep clean fluid in the pump tank and bypass any dirty fluid from the car into a separate container.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 8:13 am 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2016 9:26 am
Posts: 2
Location: Outback Oasis Lake Cargelligo NSW
Hi all, I have been gathering the required part for my own set up and have everything I need. Just looking at the previous post picture, is it at the red handle valve that the bypass would be set up to let the old dirty fluid out so as to keep the fluid in the hose from the pump clean? I assume this would be the case, otherwise the black hose leading from the pump would still be full of old fluid each time you went to pump it up again if you were to use the blue handle valve for collection of old fluid? Feel free to correct me as this might not be seen to be a big issue. Also the red valve appears to be a three way ball valve, is this correct?

_________________
MIN-69S
Mk2 69 Cooper S - The best birthday present I've ever bought for my wife, thankfully she lets me drive it too!!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 8:22 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 5:28 pm
Posts: 74
Location: Hobart, TAS
Lox of the LAKE wrote:
Hi all, I have been gathering the required part for my own set up and have everything I need. Just looking at the previous post picture, is it at the red handle valve that the bypass would be set up to let the old dirty fluid out so as to keep the fluid in the hose from the pump clean? I assume this would be the case, otherwise the black hose leading from the pump would still be full of old fluid each time you went to pump it up again if you were to use the blue handle valve for collection of old fluid? Feel free to correct me as this might not be seen to be a big issue. Also the red valve appears to be a three way ball valve, is this correct?


As it is shown in the photo it's set up to flush and test hydro bags out of the car. There is a tee at the end of the black hose that has a Schrader valve, a hydro bag connector and a two way ball valve. I just use water in the pump for flushing and pressure testing. I fill the bag via the pump and release via the red handled ball valve until as much crap as possible is out of the bag. I would have used a 3-way L-port ball valve if I had had one but was building it on the cheap from my box of plumbing bits and pieces.

The system on my car is pretty clean as all the bags were cleaned and pressure tested out of the car and I replaced all of the hard plumbing. I agree that the fluid in the black hose will be of the same quality as that in the car but with this set-up you can never get all of the fluid out of the system. You can pump up and release pressure several times to get as much air out of the system as possible. I have a check (non-return) valve directly at the pump outlet so no fluid from the car can return to the pump reservoir unless I want it to.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:02 pm 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:04 pm
Posts: 6654
Location: Melbourne, VIC
I haven't used my pump in anger just yet but I'm considering using just water or perhaps a glycol mix in the RIDGID pump initially. The plan is to repeat pumping and deflation as many times as necessary to flush the crap from the system, checking what comes out in the bin until it's reasonably clean. Then change the source from water/glycol to hydro fluid, pump the handle (whilst disconnected from the car) to force the clean hydro fluid through the hose up to the schrader fitting, connect to the car and pump and deflate a few times. This won't cleanse the system completely but should be better than what's in it now.

If done carefully and with good eye and hand protection I'm wondering if a standard air hose chuck with short length of hose into a container could be used for all evacuations of the system. That way no dirty fluid ever enters the pump or hose.

Similar to one of these:

Attachment:
Lezyne-Slip-Chuck-Adapter-Floor-Pumps-Silver-L-1-PRESTA-V1AL06.jpg


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 25 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 17 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.