Hi All.

Will be running in my new 1098 very soon, any suggestions for coolant and running in oil would be most welcome. Also thoughts on the correct running in procedure. I'll be starting it on the bench to check for leaks, before painting.

Thanks.

I prefer to use water only for the first start and heat cycles. Then once you change the oil the first time swap over to coolant.

The only time I had an issue with a head gasket was when I used coolant from the start. It also means you can check for leaks etc without losing expensive coolant (expensive compared to water).

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This sums up the running in procedure for any engine pretty well, you don't need to do anything specific, just avoid a couple of things.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oklqJnm7_TY

The short version is: don't use full throttle, don't go to the rpm limit, don't do long journeys at a constant speed (i.e. highway driving) and make sure any short trips let the engine reach operating temp each time. Do that for between 500-1000kms and you should be fine.

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2015 Ducati 899 Panigale

My instructions from the builder of my new engine are:
Penrite HPR 30 (other products are available) from the beginning and thereafter - no running in oil;
fill/prime oil filter and cooler (if fitted);
set carbs and static timing;
run at 2,000 to 2,200 rpm to lubricate cam and followers- don't let engine idle;
run to operating temperature if all is well;
stop and retention head nuts/bolts and reset tappets hot.

As Timmy said, I would also use plain water in radiator until everything is ok.
Paddy's comments refer to driving on the road once everything is ok and leakproof.
Once timing and carbs are close, driving in top gear with occasional quick acceleration will help settle rings.
Then change oil and filter.

Thanks guys, will pick up some Penrite today.
Looking forward to getting this thing on the road. Been in bits for 6 years!

Bill Timmy and Paddy, thanks for your help.

Once your out on the road, dont baby it around! Of course i dont mean 6000+rpm shifts, but just drive it normally. Give it a bit from the lights ect. if something goes 'Bang', it was going to go 'bang' anyway, regardless of how you break in the engine.

Going bang is not the problem.... Glazed bores are the issue to be avoided ...... which means the "don't baby it" advice should be taken seriously.. Don't thrash it but pootling about at low revs and a light throttle is to be equally avoided.....

The advice I was given was to (pretty much as soon as possible) find a nice hill. Load the engine up nicely in, say, third gear ..no lugging - no wild revs and take several runs up the hill to bed the rings in properly.

Cheers, Ian

Thanks guys, great advice. Super keen to run it in right.

Whats the deal with Zinc in oil? Should I look for a high zinc oil? I did a full rebuild on my 1098,
engine, gearbox, diff, the lot. Want to use the right stuff from the start. I won't be thrashing it but will be driving every day.

What oils do you use?

Engine spec:
Full rebuild.
202 ported head
80thou over
10:1 comp
GR266ss cam
Free flow headers
1.5 SU
Full gearbox rebuild
cross pin diff

I used to use Castrol edge 25W50 until the price got out of hand.
Then Valvoline classic 20W50 until it got scarce.
Currently using Gulf Western XP 20W50. Recommended by GR from his dyno testing.
All above are full zinc and maintain good oil pressure hot on the freeway.
Which I found not the case with Castrol GTX.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Drmini, the Gulf Western is pretty cheap at the moment, think I'll give it a shot.

Quick question; do you put grease on the splines of the primary gear where the clutch disk sits.

I didn't because the haynes manual didn't mention it and I thought grease in the clutch area could be an issue.

If it is supposed to have grease, what type?

Thanks in advance.

(This would be the third time clutch on and off in two weeks).

Never mind, the clutch is coming out again. Does need grease, Molybdenum Disulphide apparently.

Getting quite good at it now, this will be the last time and should be test running on the weekend.

Will let you know how it goes.

Clutch plates often come with a small tube of lithium grease. If you don't lube these splines at all, you can get fretting which leaves dry red dust in between them.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks, drmini. I removed the assembly, greased the splines and replaced last night. Double checked everything, spring flat, straps parallel all torqued to spec. Got my crane assembled and will have the engine on a bench tonight, still got to put a kit through my 1.5 SU, rig up fuel and battery and will test run on the weekend.

Any suggestions for exhaust paint/ wrap?

Thanks

I don't like wrap on steel exhaust headers for road cars, it superheats the pipe which then oxidizes and falls to bits.
I once had an LCB do this.
I can't afford ceramic coating so I use VHT silver exhaust paint. Or the other one supercrap sells.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc, I'll get the same.

Last night put a tappet chest breather on, finished the front brakes, considered the engine bay (3 beer night). Getting closer.