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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 10:05 am 
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Location: Mulgrave Victoria
hey guys was wondering if anyone has acid dipped there car if so was there any problems or does anyone not recommend it and if so could you please explain why thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 4:15 pm 
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Location: Newcastle
P7676 has opinions on acid dip, i believe he used to build the body's

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 7:15 pm 
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I did some searching on the forum and the web and found varying opinions. Most of the panel beaters I have talked to have said bead blasting and none have mentioned acid dipping. I'm also yet to find somewhere that has a good reputation for bead blasting as well as most have negative reviews which I have found interesting.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 9:28 am 
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Location: Bentleigh, Melbourne
Rather than an acid dip, can you find a place that does an alkaline (caustic) dip? Will remove all paint/ coatings etc but won't hurt the steel (Chemist hat on here)..
I've heard that with media blasting it's a huge job removing the stuff, it ends up everywhere in all sorts of cavities..

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 7:09 pm 
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Location: Yandina,Sunshine Coast,QLD
Just wondering why you want to acid dip instead of conventional stripping methods?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 8:53 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2016 7:28 pm
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Location: Mulgrave Victoria
im just after everyones opinions and to see whats the best path for my me as im doing the build my self, im only 17 and have time to do it properly


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 9:07 pm 
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Location: Melbourne. VIC
My view on acid dipping from what I've been told by a quite a few people is that when you acid dip, the acid solution gets in between seams and in areas that are hard to get to which makes removing this solution difficult and hard with no guarantees you will remove it all.

When it comes times to painting, the acid solution can leech from these seams and areas and cause a lot of headaches as it will react with the paint.

The cleaning process after acid dipping in some cases doesn't remove all of this acid solution and is too much of a risk and unknown.

This is what I've heard and been told and it makes total sense.

Id be looking at Soda Blasting or a good body stripper who will after stripping, clean the body and apply a Deoxidine solution to neutralise and seal the bare metal- basically treating the raw steel.

Or sealing the body with an etch primer.

This is one of the best Soda Blast and media Body strippers in Melbourne and his work is impeccable. He does ALOT of high end cars for a lot of clients. https://www.sodablast.com.au

He's not the cheapest but the quality of his work is outstanding. Anyone can strip a car with a media blaster but it takes experience and skill as to not get the panels hot and cause stretching.

Regards, Mark


Last edited by mini210 on Fri Jan 19, 2018 9:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 9:25 pm 
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All those people that are saying that acid dipping is bad obviously don't know what acid dipping is.
Most Australian Minis were acid dipped at the factory as part of the roto-dipping process. The acid removes contaminates from the body assembly process. The body then goes through a wash and an alkaline dip and another wash and so on.
If acid was bad there would be no Minis left. Just look at the differences between a 74 Leyland Mini that was dipped and a 76 Leyland Mini that wasn't dipped. The last Australian Minis suffer a lot more rust than the earlier Minis.

Commercial body dipping involves much more than just an acid tank.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 6:57 am 
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Location: Wollongong, NSW
There is a nice flow chart here of the rotodipping process: http://www.elevenhundred.com/rotodip.php

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 7:47 am 
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Location: Brandy Hill, NSW
I've been told glass blasting is better than soda blasting. Soda residue in hard to get places which helps to cause rust whereas glass does not.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 9:51 am 
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A good blaster will use the right grit to do the job.
My Cooper S was done with plastic on the main part of the body and glass on the roof due to the poor surface.
He uses soda on good bodies, plastic grit on bad ones and glass on the really bad ones. Garnet grit on tractors and truck chassis and steel grit on other things.
Then there is walnut and a few other things for other applications.

So don't just jump for one particular thing just because the internet says it's popular this week. If a company says something is bad it is usually because they are selling something else.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 1:51 pm 
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I had my panelvan glass blasted at Gosford NSW. Awesome job, good price and really nice bloke.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 6:56 am 
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Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2016 7:28 pm
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Location: Mulgrave Victoria
thanks guys im looking at a few recommended people to soda blast it for now


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 9:58 am 
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The only way to go is sand blasting ,after the vehicle is sand blasted use a 2 pack epoxy primer on all of the body .Body repairs can then be achieved using conventional methods ,plastic body filler will adhere to the epoxy primer, After repairs are completed touch up areas with the epoxy primer REMEMBER rust cannot get under the epoxy primer. Other acrylic primers are what the cave men used. TAKE NOTE ,use a sand blasting company that has done cars before and TELL them do not damage the panels I have never had a problem with sand blasting. Recently I repaired a mini roof that was sand blasted by a non professional. The sand blasting process work hardens the 1mm metal making it harder to repair. If there is proofcote on the car scrape it off with a scraper and heat use a butane torch.Proofcote is hard to remove when sand blasting as the sand can bounce off the proofcote. The complete car dips usually alkaline are good on single panels not so good on a unitized body construction because it will clean out the sealer and paint in the spot welded joints ,how to you repaint or reseal the joints? Sand blasting is also the cheapest and the finish on the car gives the body a great key for maximum adhesion. Also use a weld through primer on any joints that have to be welded zinc or copper preferred also lightly sand the epoxy primer before applying soft body filler P7676


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 10:03 am 
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Who uses sand?


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