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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 11:02 am 
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Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2016 7:28 pm
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Location: Mulgrave Victoria
what price bracket should i be looking at for blasting my mini


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 4:44 pm 
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Location: Adelaide
Sounds to me like everyone has their own opinion.
I have just picked up 2 bodies and want to go down one of these paths.
I have had a quote to dip and treat the body, doors, boot lid and bits and bobs for $2750 - $3250 which sounds like a lot to me and more than I can afford. However, I haven't yet gone down the path of having researched quotes to undertake the stripping process with other media... Sand, Soda, Glass, Walnut etc etc... Is anyone able to give ballpark estimates for these media?

Basically I want to strip the body and panels then etch prime. I don't have the space or time to undertake that myself at this stage.

Cheers,
Zulu

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 8:26 pm 
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I got my mini abrasive blasted 2 years ago for $750, not including the doors as I reskinned them also not including boot and bonnet as they are easy to paint strip. They did a great job on the floors firewall pillars etc when I got it back I noted where the rust was. Then I applied 2 pack epoxy primer .NO damage to the body as they do many cars. The only problem is my C.S is better than new as I gapped the car using small hammers and dollies no body filler in the car. Although I don't have any problems with using body filler if it is used correctly. If you buy body filler, buy it from a body repair supplier, most of the others are second rate and you end up with pin holes and poor adhesion.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 8:03 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2015 9:38 am
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Location: Brandy Hill, NSW
Who did the blasting for $750? I may need mine doing.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 9:12 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 11:32 am
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Dunlop?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 9:14 am 
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Jess_dela wrote:
hey guys was wondering if anyone has acid dipped there car if so was there any problems or does anyone not recommend it and if so could you please explain why thanks


Jess...best thing would be to post some pictures of what you have to work with...some people here will be able to recommend the correct approach based on what they see :idea:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 1:17 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:43 pm
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Location: Narellan NSW
Not wanting to start a new thread , I thought I may ask the question here .
I have already been down the road of a full bare metal , every thing replaced or reconditioned restoration and a lot of you know my car
I know what it cost to do this , trust me , done that , been there :cry:
I also have a van that I am rebuilding , I have cut off all the bad bits and have the replacement panels ready to go back on , not wanting to build another concourse ( that's how the cooper s started out )
but this time a solid good car ,
my question is , , Is there any reason to take it back to bare metal ?
The original paint is still stuck to it since 1977 , would this not be a good under coat if I keyed it in ?
I don't want to spend the money on this one that I did on the previous one if I don't have to ,to get a good a result .

Mark


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 6:17 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
If using 2 pack it's best to go bare metal. Because acrylic expands more than the 2 pack and it will eventually craze after lots of heat cycles. Check out the RH side of Evan's car Barney after I drove it to work for 6 months.
Having said that my red car is a cheapo 2K job over acrylic, most of it still looks OK except an adhesion fault on the roof.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 8:37 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
If using 2 pack it's best to go bare metal.

... and if the original is acrylic and the new paint job is acrylic?

I understand why slacko is asking and would like to know as well. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 9:52 am 
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My previous paint job was acrylic over acrylic and held up fine for 15 years until I got it done in 2K.

BTW, when did Minis go from baked enamel to acrylic, and was that then an acrylic enamel or lacquer??
Edit:
I am aware the MK 2 on said 'refinish with acrylic lacquer' on the paint code sticker.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Last edited by drmini in aust on Sun Jan 28, 2018 10:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 10:03 am 
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slacko wrote:
Not wanting to start a new thread , I thought I may ask the question here .
I have already been down the road of a full bare metal , every thing replaced or reconditioned restoration and a lot of you know my car
I know what it cost to do this , trust me , done that , been there :cry:
I also have a van that I am rebuilding , I have cut off all the bad bits and have the replacement panels ready to go back on , not wanting to build another concourse ( that's how the cooper s started out )
but this time a solid good car ,
my question is , , Is there any reason to take it back to bare metal ?
The original paint is still stuck to it since 1977 , would this not be a good under coat if I keyed it in ?
I don't want to spend the money on this one that I did on the previous one if I don't have to ,to get a good a result .

Mark


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 6:43 pm 
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Location: Muswellbrook -- NSW
^
Waiting patiently for your response to Slackos question P7676 as you are/were in the trade and i do
like to pic up tips from people in the trade .

I too have a van that'll need painting down the track and am interested genuinely .


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 7:43 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
BTW, when did Minis go from baked enamel to acrylic, and was that then an acrylic enamel or lacquer??
Edit:
I am aware the MK 2 on said 'refinish with acrylic lacquer' on the paint code sticker.

Up to 1973 the BALM paint colour charts say: "Finished in baked enamel. Use Dulon E Type Acrylic Lacquer for touch-up"

The 1973 colour card and Refinish Bulletin 258 say: "Some vehicles are finished in baked enamel and others in Acrylic Enamel. Refinish all vehicles with Dulon E Type Acrylic Lacquer".

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... 25&t=66469

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2018 5:21 am 
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Thanks for that. So it looks like they went to acrylic when Minis moved to Enfield then?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2018 11:00 am 
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Enfield was the middle of 75.
I think they partly went to acrylic around 1969 or so. The paint stickers on the 1971 Gambier Turquoise Clubmans is Berger Duracryl.

I have heard that the reason for the slow adoption to acrylic was DuPont owned the patent and they gave an exclusive to GM for so many years for OE supplied paint.


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