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 Post subject: New owners,problem car!
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 3:13 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2018 3:01 pm
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So just dropping in to say hi to everyone,me in Melbourne,son in Ballarat, son has just bought a Leyland mini and Im the go to guy for mechanical advice and after my first drive I think Im going to need a lot of mechanical advice,my background is morris minors,the same,but different,so to speak. First issue,very hard to get in to gear,generally doesnt crunch,just wont go in and sounds like the throw out bearing on the clutch fork is RS and possibly the clutch also,does the engine need to come out to repair/replace these? What is the big nut at the point where the clutch lever arm enters the bellhousing,is it supposed to be able to be turned by finger in or out,because I can! Will start with these questions but be assured I have MANY more!
Thanks and hope this will be the start to many happy repairs.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 3:28 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Welcome oldie...did you try clutch in, select second momentarily, then try oneth?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 4:52 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 3:07 pm
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Location: Bundy
oldie wrote:
So just dropping in to say hi to everyone,me in Melbourne,son in Ballarat, son has just bought a Leyland mini and Im the go to guy for mechanical advice and after my first drive I think Im going to need a lot of mechanical advice,my background is morris minors,the same,but different,so to speak. First issue,very hard to get in to gear,generally doesnt crunch,just wont go in and sounds like the throw out bearing on the clutch fork is RS and possibly the clutch also,does the engine need to come out to repair/replace these? What is the big nut at the point where the clutch lever arm enters the bellhousing,is it supposed to be able to be turned by finger in or out,because I can! Will start with these questions but be assured I have MANY more!
Thanks and hope this will be the start to many happy repairs.


Sounds like your main throwout stop nuts are loose and not allowing the clutch to fully engage. Back them off or take them off and see what happens.

If this fixes it then reset them as per the workshop manual. The stop nut is there to prevent excess strain on the crankshaft. Some people run with out them but i dont. Just make sure the lock nut is done up tight to prevent this occuring again.

I would give the rest of the clutch system a going over. Bleed it first and then adjust the return bolt stop gap to 20 thou.

Here is the clutch section of the Morris manual if you need it. http://www.ausmini.com/manuals/Mini%20W ... Clutch.pdf


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 5:10 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2018 3:01 pm
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Thanks for the input,need all help I can get! Have been letting fingers do the walking through the internet checking out adjustment etc.,looks like clutch and throw out can be changed with engine in place,Correct? Can anyone recommend a knowledgeable mini mechanic in Melb. eastern subs or Ballarat as dont know if either of us really have the time at present.By the way,I did also try the into 2nd then into 1st,didnt make much difference,sometimes would go in,other times not and really had to give it quite a solid push sometimes from 2nd to neutral to 1st.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 7:20 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Check MC diameter. Some Minis came with a 0.70" diameter clutch master cylinder, it barely moves enough fluid to operate the clutch when parts get worn. Solution is fit a 0.75" one like other Minis.

If the pedal is stopping before the floor, the slave cylinder piston is probably hitting the circlip.
Common solutions:
Remove circlip (is not used on some replacement cylinders), or
Bend clutch arm, or
Lengthen slave cylinder pushrod 5mm.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 1:43 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 08, 2004 9:27 pm
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
buy a copy of this manual, it describes everything you've asked about

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-worksh ... SwUoNaBpJi

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 2:56 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 8:54 pm
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Location: Hunter NSW
Also if you pull clutch arm out check the ball on the end and all clevis pins for wear too


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 6:04 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:33 pm
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drmini in aust wrote:
Check MC diameter. Some Minis came with a 0.70" diameter clutch master cylinder, it barely moves enough fluid to operate the clutch when parts get worn. Solution is fit a 0.75" one like other Minis.

If the pedal is stopping before the floor, the slave cylinder piston is probably hitting the circlip.
Common solutions:
Remove circlip (is not used on some replacement cylinders), or
Bend clutch arm, or
Lengthen slave cylinder pushrod 5mm.


It may not be obvious if this is happening but easy to check... have someone push pedal down while you look....

Be VERY careful about just removing the circlip. Its easy to just push it all the way out ... = big mess/no clutch :oops:

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2018 9:52 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 5:03 pm
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Location: Out in the shed cleaning up my own mess.
Goldbrocade_62 wrote:
Also if you pull clutch arm out check the ball on the end and all clevis pins for wear too


+1 Plenty of wear points, esp the ball and thrust bearing carrier (never gets lubricated). A dog's life.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 9:31 am 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2004 11:23 am
Posts: 577
Location: Eastern Melbourne
I'd check the clutch fluid it topped up and try pumping the pedal to see if that makes a difference. Once you get to the need a professional try Link auto in the eastern suburbs, efficient and down to earth guys sayin it how it is.


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