Ausmini
It is currently Fri Mar 29, 2024 5:03 am

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: New owners,problem car!
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 3:13 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2018 3:01 pm
Posts: 3
So just dropping in to say hi to everyone,me in Melbourne,son in Ballarat, son has just bought a Leyland mini and Im the go to guy for mechanical advice and after my first drive I think Im going to need a lot of mechanical advice,my background is morris minors,the same,but different,so to speak. First issue,very hard to get in to gear,generally doesnt crunch,just wont go in and sounds like the throw out bearing on the clutch fork is RS and possibly the clutch also,does the engine need to come out to repair/replace these? What is the big nut at the point where the clutch lever arm enters the bellhousing,is it supposed to be able to be turned by finger in or out,because I can! Will start with these questions but be assured I have MANY more!
Thanks and hope this will be the start to many happy repairs.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 3:28 pm 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 11:32 am
Posts: 12390
Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Welcome oldie...did you try clutch in, select second momentarily, then try oneth?

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 4:52 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 3:07 pm
Posts: 5069
Location: The Internet
oldie wrote:
So just dropping in to say hi to everyone,me in Melbourne,son in Ballarat, son has just bought a Leyland mini and Im the go to guy for mechanical advice and after my first drive I think Im going to need a lot of mechanical advice,my background is morris minors,the same,but different,so to speak. First issue,very hard to get in to gear,generally doesnt crunch,just wont go in and sounds like the throw out bearing on the clutch fork is RS and possibly the clutch also,does the engine need to come out to repair/replace these? What is the big nut at the point where the clutch lever arm enters the bellhousing,is it supposed to be able to be turned by finger in or out,because I can! Will start with these questions but be assured I have MANY more!
Thanks and hope this will be the start to many happy repairs.


Sounds like your main throwout stop nuts are loose and not allowing the clutch to fully engage. Back them off or take them off and see what happens.

If this fixes it then reset them as per the workshop manual. The stop nut is there to prevent excess strain on the crankshaft. Some people run with out them but i dont. Just make sure the lock nut is done up tight to prevent this occuring again.

I would give the rest of the clutch system a going over. Bleed it first and then adjust the return bolt stop gap to 20 thou.

Here is the clutch section of the Morris manual if you need it. http://www.ausmini.com/manuals/Mini%20W ... Clutch.pdf


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 5:10 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2018 3:01 pm
Posts: 3
Thanks for the input,need all help I can get! Have been letting fingers do the walking through the internet checking out adjustment etc.,looks like clutch and throw out can be changed with engine in place,Correct? Can anyone recommend a knowledgeable mini mechanic in Melb. eastern subs or Ballarat as dont know if either of us really have the time at present.By the way,I did also try the into 2nd then into 1st,didnt make much difference,sometimes would go in,other times not and really had to give it quite a solid push sometimes from 2nd to neutral to 1st.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 7:20 am 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39621
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Check MC diameter. Some Minis came with a 0.70" diameter clutch master cylinder, it barely moves enough fluid to operate the clutch when parts get worn. Solution is fit a 0.75" one like other Minis.

If the pedal is stopping before the floor, the slave cylinder piston is probably hitting the circlip.
Common solutions:
Remove circlip (is not used on some replacement cylinders), or
Bend clutch arm, or
Lengthen slave cylinder pushrod 5mm.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 1:43 pm 
Offline
Yay For Hay!
User avatar

Joined: Wed Sep 08, 2004 9:27 pm
Posts: 15861
Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
buy a copy of this manual, it describes everything you've asked about

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-worksh ... SwUoNaBpJi

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 2:56 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 8:54 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: Hunter NSW
Also if you pull clutch arm out check the ball on the end and all clevis pins for wear too


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 6:04 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc

Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:33 pm
Posts: 1146
drmini in aust wrote:
Check MC diameter. Some Minis came with a 0.70" diameter clutch master cylinder, it barely moves enough fluid to operate the clutch when parts get worn. Solution is fit a 0.75" one like other Minis.

If the pedal is stopping before the floor, the slave cylinder piston is probably hitting the circlip.
Common solutions:
Remove circlip (is not used on some replacement cylinders), or
Bend clutch arm, or
Lengthen slave cylinder pushrod 5mm.


It may not be obvious if this is happening but easy to check... have someone push pedal down while you look....

Be VERY careful about just removing the circlip. Its easy to just push it all the way out ... = big mess/no clutch :oops:

Cheers, Ian


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2018 9:52 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 5:03 pm
Posts: 2727
Location: Out in the shed cleaning up my own mess.
Goldbrocade_62 wrote:
Also if you pull clutch arm out check the ball on the end and all clevis pins for wear too


+1 Plenty of wear points, esp the ball and thrust bearing carrier (never gets lubricated). A dog's life.

_________________
1967 Cooper S - ready for reg.
1965 Cooper S shell - all painted up, ready for fit out.
1969 Cooper S Mk2. Engine reco WIP
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 9:31 am 
Offline
998cc
998cc

Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2004 11:23 am
Posts: 580
Location: Eastern Melbourne
I'd check the clutch fluid it topped up and try pumping the pedal to see if that makes a difference. Once you get to the need a professional try Link auto in the eastern suburbs, efficient and down to earth guys sayin it how it is.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 39 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.