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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 2:33 pm 
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998cc
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Hello All.
Recently I fitted 4 displacers and I had the car pumped up. Question for the experts ,what is the allowable trim height tolerance maybe 6mm or 8 mm ?.The car has not been on the road since the displacers have been done .Will they settle evenly or is there always a slight variation from side to side ????The displacers are the same number side to side.

TY Allen


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 4:23 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Yes...if you are patient and use it where the suspension can have a regular excursion on all for corners...if the hydro was pumped up to say 320-330 as is recommended then you can adjust the ride height after a week or two...slamming a hydro car TOO much achieves nothing more than increaseing suspension wear just to get the backward ballcap "look"

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Last edited by 9YaTaH on Tue Jul 24, 2018 3:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 7:30 pm 
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848cc
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Location: TOWNSVILLE NQ
Don't want to start an argument here but, when I served my apprenticeship in a BMC dealership we never went over 295 psi with trim height measured from front hub nut to the wheel arch. 13 1/4" for Mini Deluxe and 12 1/4" for Cooper S. If pressure was too high, fit spacers at strut foots.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:06 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Camden
Every time you pump the suspension up, each side will move slightly over a day or week. Same as Stibbsy, my advice from a BMC mechanic mentor was to keep it under 300psi. I run at about 275-280psi (with .100" spacer washers).
Get your car pumped slightly too high; drive it over a few days and let some fluid out from one side to equalise the front heights.
I measure using 3 fingers pushed in between the guard and top of the tyre on the front wheels. The slightest variation in trim height side to side, can be felt by which part of your knuckle rubs first. In winter it drops to around 2-finger clearance.
The front trim height should be the same, side-to-side - the rear end will be higher and won't come out even side-to-side, but to get them perfect requires removing the struts and shortening one of them - or make adjustable rear struts.
You can set the front ride height to whatever you like, although the main idea is to have the drive shafts lying horizontally.
In the '60s/70s NSW police dropped the suspension pressure until the car ran on its bump stops.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:13 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 8:38 pm
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Great information thanks heaps for your help.

Allen


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:16 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 5:03 pm
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Location: Out in the shed cleaning up my own mess.
I have my "S" set slightly higher on the RHS. About 5 mm to be precise.
I figure that because I'm an overweight fat bastard, the car should travel perfectly level when I drive lonesome, which will be most of the time. :cry:

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - all painted up, ready for fit out.
1969 Cooper S Mk2 - claimed by 2nd. born
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 3:43 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Stibbsy wrote:
Don't want to start an argument here but, when I served my apprenticeship in a BMC dealership we never went over 295 psi with trim height measured from front hub nut to the wheel arch. 13 1/4" for Mini Deluxe and 12 1/4" for Cooper S. If pressure was too high, fit spacers at strut foots.

Quote:
Every time you pump the suspension up, each side will move slightly over a day or week. Same as Stibbsy, my advice from a BMC mechanic mentor was to keep it under 300psi. I run at about 275-280psi (with .100" spacer washers).
Get your car pumped slightly too high; drive it over a few days and let some fluid out from one side to equalise the front heights.
I measure using 3 fingers pushed in between the guard and top of the tyre on the front wheels. The slightest variation in trim height side to side, can be felt by which part of your knuckle rubs first. In winter it drops to around 2-finger clearance.
The front trim height should be the same, side-to-side - the rear end will be higher and won't come out even side-to-side, but to get them perfect requires removing the struts and shortening one of them - or make adjustable rear struts.
You can set the front ride height to whatever you like, although the main idea is to have the drive shafts lying horizontally.
In the '60s/70s NSW police dropped the suspension pressure until the car ran on its bump stops.


But in the day, you didn't have 50 year old bags and the suspension was rarely completely stripped and refurbished...the purpose of going 10% over is to make sure everything seats in after reassembly and to give the bags, lines and connections a decent pressure test for a few days...then drop to three fingers at the front (say). I doubt many people would be watching their pressure gauges whilst adjusting ride height :|

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 6:26 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2013 5:44 pm
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Location: Camden
9YaTaH wrote:
Stibbsy wrote:
Don't want to start an argument here but, when I served my apprenticeship in a BMC dealership we never went over 295 psi with trim height measured from front hub nut to the wheel arch. 13 1/4" for Mini Deluxe and 12 1/4" for Cooper S. If pressure was too high, fit spacers at strut foots.

Quote:
Every time you pump the suspension up, each side will move slightly over a day or week. Same as Stibbsy, my advice from a BMC mechanic mentor was to keep it under 300psi. I run at about 275-280psi (with .100" spacer washers).
Get your car pumped slightly too high; drive it over a few days and let some fluid out from one side to equalise the front heights.
I measure using 3 fingers pushed in between the guard and top of the tyre on the front wheels. The slightest variation in trim height side to side, can be felt by which part of your knuckle rubs first. In winter it drops to around 2-finger clearance.
The front trim height should be the same, side-to-side - the rear end will be higher and won't come out even side-to-side, but to get them perfect requires removing the struts and shortening one of them - or make adjustable rear struts.
You can set the front ride height to whatever you like, although the main idea is to have the drive shafts lying horizontally.
In the '60s/70s NSW police dropped the suspension pressure until the car ran on its bump stops.


But in the day, you didn't have 50 year old bags and the suspension was rarely completely stripped and refurbished...the purpose of going 10% over is to make sure everything seats in after reassembly and to give the bags, lines and connections a decent pressure test for a few days...then drop to three fingers at the front (say). I doubt many people would be watching their pressure gauges whilst adjusting ride height :|

Like everyone else, I'm learning as I go. 6 months ago fitted a set of late S displacers to my rebuild. Pumped up once - no leaks (couldn't believe that!)... settled slightly with colder weather. Repumped today to about 280psi. I am surprised that there was very little adjustment needed for a pile of old bags.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 6:36 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 11:01 am
Posts: 456
Location: TOWNSVILLE NQ
9YaTaH wrote:
Stibbsy wrote:
Don't want to start an argument here but, when I served my apprenticeship in a BMC dealership we never went over 295 psi with trim height measured from front hub nut to the wheel arch. 13 1/4" for Mini Deluxe and 12 1/4" for Cooper S. If pressure was too high, fit spacers at strut foots.


But in the day, you didn't have 50 year old bags and the suspension was rarely completely stripped and refurbished...the purpose of going 10% over is to make sure everything seats in after reassembly and to give the bags, lines and connections a decent pressure test for a few days...then drop to three fingers at the front (say). I doubt many people would be watching their pressure gauges whilst adjusting ride height :|


All the more reason not to put too much pressure in "50 year old bags". That's displacers I mean.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 7:18 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Stibbsy wrote:
All the more reason not to put too much pressure in "50 year old bags". That's displacers I mean.


Yep...much better to have a bag blow at 100-110 on the Bruce Hwy :roll:

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 7:26 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 5:03 pm
Posts: 2729
Location: Out in the shed cleaning up my own mess.
9YaTaH wrote:
Stibbsy wrote:
All the more reason not to put too much pressure in "50 year old bags". That's displacers I mean.


Yep...much better to have a bag blow at 100-110 on the Bruce Hwy :roll:

Blowing a seal -much more satisfying :lol:
8th

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - all painted up, ready for fit out.
1969 Cooper S Mk2 - claimed by 2nd. born
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 8:26 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2013 5:44 pm
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Location: Camden
Too many punch lines....
The only time I've ever had a displacer let go was in local Coles car park about a year ago when I sat back into the car. 47 year old parts? Only needed a new hose end and still working.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 9:17 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I test them in my test rig at 300 psi. Hardly ever leak internally, it's the 50+ year old hoses and rusted crimps that's the worry.
At least hoses are fixable, as long as you don't want ye olde Dunlop diamond hose. I used Pirtek MPH-06 hydraulic return line hose, rated 500 PSI w/p.

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