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 Post subject: Clutch push ror 1970 c,s
PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 8:25 pm 
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998cc
998cc

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Hello All ,were there 2 lengths in the slave cylinder push rod ?
TY Allen


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 10:05 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Camden
I don't think so. People welded extra length to compensate for wear in the ball joints and linkages though.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 10:50 pm 
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1275cc
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13H396 is the one to use. Its about 89mm long end to end.

The midget and sprite use the same slave cylinder (GSY110) but with the shorter pushrod 13H21 which is about 70mm long.


Last edited by gtogreen1969 on Fri Aug 17, 2018 1:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 1:15 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Camden
gtogreen1969 wrote:
13H396 is the one to use. Its about 89mm long end to end.

The miget and sprite use the same slave cylinder (GSY110) but with the shorter pushrod 13H21 which is about 70mm long.


Very interesting.... noted in my parts book.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 9:53 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2014 11:14 pm
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Allen

The mini's clutch operation often becomes overlooked. Because the clutch arm has quite a large operating ratio (~5.7:1) based on its fulcrum point, wear at the base of the clutch throw-out carrier plunger [AYG97] as well as the ball at the base of the clutch arm [2A3518], become excessive enough to produce the symptom you're probably experiencing. This then in turn doesn't produce enough throw-out from the push rod at the top of the arm to disengage the clutch.

Based on above ratio, over time, a 1mm wear on either plunger and/or arm (more than likely both) would see a 5-6mm difference on push rod extension throw.

Fixes have been to extend rod, bend clutch arm or combination of both. I have seen many bent clutch arms over time - arms that were once straight that have been heated and bent. There were no bent arms as BMC part # so one can assume that the bent arms were a remedy over time.

BTW it is not recommended practice to have a bent arm in place as geometry on carrier is then skewed based on throw angles.

Pay close attention to both the clevis pins, in particular the larger bottom one, as associated wear here also accentuates extended rod play.

As a fix, weld up the ball on the bottom of the clutch arm and re-profile, as well as inserting a sleeve within a new carrier (new AYG97 carriers' Rockwell is unfortunately is not to spec with original). For this, bore out the parallel section of the new carrier (the section where the ball of the clutch arm actually sits - not the conical section), heat and replace with a hardened steel insert equivalent to the size of the ball diameter on the bottom of clutch arm.

Dependant on whether your engine is already installed, the job of replacing carrier / clevis pins etc is possible in the car, but obviously easier out.

Hope this helps.


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