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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2018 6:27 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Branxton, NSW
Thanks Tim, will check the pump over at work tonight, it will be more fun than working!

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 10:37 am 
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998cc
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Location: Sydney
I have my deluxe steering column out and am trying to work out how I check if the spline is ok.

What am I looking for and how do I get the clamp off the bottom of the column to check? Little bugger won’t move. Yes I’ve undone the bolt.



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 11:58 am 
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1360cc
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
mattywood wrote:
I have my deluxe steering column out and am trying to work out how I check if the spline is ok.

What am I looking for and how do I get the clamp off the bottom of the column to check? Little bugger won’t move. Yes I’ve undone the bolt.


Spray with some penetrant...gently drift the threaded end of the bolt until it moves with a brass or copper drift...sometimes just loosening up the slot on the column over the splines helps a little...

Try and support the opposite side of the column down low whilst drifting....

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 12:31 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, VIC
9YaTaH wrote:
mattywood wrote:
I have my deluxe steering column out and am trying to work out how I check if the spline is ok.

What am I looking for and how do I get the clamp off the bottom of the column to check? Little bugger won’t move. Yes I’ve undone the bolt.


Spray with some penetrant...gently drift the threaded end of the bolt until it moves with a brass or copper drift...sometimes just loosening up the slot on the column over the splines helps a little...

Try and support the opposite side of the column down low whilst drifting....

If he's got the column out then it's no longer attached to the rack.

I'm guessing matty is trying to remove the clamp from the column shaft. It's welded on so is not easily removable.

Checking the splines on the rack pinion and column end is a visual thing. You are looking for the presence or lack of sharp edges on both. Replacements for both are available if you have any doubt.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 2:45 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 5:26 pm
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Location: Sydney
Ok so welded on. Good to know so I can stop whacking with a hammer. :?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 6:51 pm 
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winabbey wrote:
9YaTaH wrote:
mattywood wrote:
I have my deluxe steering column out and am trying to work out how I check if the spline is ok.

What am I looking for and how do I get the clamp off the bottom of the column to check? Little bugger won’t move. Yes I’ve undone the bolt.


Spray with some penetrant...gently drift the threaded end of the bolt until it moves with a brass or copper drift...sometimes just loosening up the slot on the column over the splines helps a little...

Try and support the opposite side of the column down low whilst drifting....

If he's got the column out then it's no longer attached to the rack.

I'm guessing matty is trying to remove the clamp from the column shaft. It's welded on so is not easily removable.

Checking the splines on the rack pinion and column end is a visual thing. You are looking for the presence or lack of sharp edges on both. Replacements for both are available if you have any doubt.


Oops! Yes, stop whacking it with a hammer! :|

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 7:28 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Sydney
Here tis. Reckon it’s ok or looking shagged?
ImageImageImage


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 7:39 pm 
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1275cc
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Looks good to me, Hows the rack end?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 7:51 pm 
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998cc
998cc

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Location: Sydney
New rack so all good. Thanks :D

Now I have one more question for the hive mind.

I am replacing the fuel line as part of the resto and can’t work out what size ID fuel line to get. The current line is 11/64 ID. It will be quick 1275. Is it 5/16 ID I need?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 8:00 pm 
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gtogreen1969 wrote:
Looks good to me.

I agree. ;)

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 8:46 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Camden
mattywood wrote:
New rack so all good. Thanks :D

Now I have one more question for the hive mind.

I am replacing the fuel line as part of the resto and can’t work out what size ID fuel line to get. The current line is 11/64 ID. It will be quick 1275. Is it 5/16 ID I need?


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Which part of the "fuel line" do you mean?
Normally, the metal pipes, from rear pump or tank are 1/4inch OD under the car and the flexible hoses inside the engine bay to carbs are 1/4inch ID. Hence they fit each other. If you go to 5/16 inch, then it's 5/16 pipe (OD) and 5/16 inch hose (ID).
Metal pipe and tube is always OD; flexible hose (including your garden hose) is ID regardless of wall thickness.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 9:03 pm 
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998cc
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Ya it the main metal fuel line. I measured the id of the original line and it was 11/64 while the id of the 5/16 aluminium pipe I bought is 5/32. Just seams odd that it’s narrower albeit a very small amount
W

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2018 3:42 pm 
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Location: Branxton, NSW
What's the best distributor to use eg vac advance or not?
I have a couple to choose from, building a project smallbore type 1098 and will fit an electronic conversion to it. Side or top exit leads? does it matter?
Thanks

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2018 4:00 pm 
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Location: Wollongong, NSW
The distributors should have two ID numbers, the type (25D, 45D etc) and the part number (5 digits which identifies the advance curve). If you have SU carbs and a good source of vacuum the vacuum advance is a good idea, but not essential. The 1098 engines have a specific advance curve

I had a top entry cap with 90 degree leads on my car and they were the easiest to use and you can find the ignition leads anywhere.

The side entry caps that I've had all take a smaller diameter lead that normal parts shop don't stock, and they are held in the cap with small screws. They look more original but are less user friendly, and have poorer sealing against rain.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2018 4:10 pm 
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998cc
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A vacuum advance can provide a 30% improvement in fuel economy.

If you're running a standard engine (highly unlikely, as it will probably have had at least a rebore) then a standard dizzy is OK ..as long as its not worn. Modern programmable (or selectable) advance curves are good .. along as you have lots to time and space to experiment.

But there's a whole lot of benefit in having the whole thing set up on the dyno by someone who knows what they're doing...

Cheers, Ian


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