Hi,
I'm at the stage of removing the timing gears to reseal the engine plate.

Will the cam gear come off after the nut is removed with a puller of some sort, should it just slide off?

How do I tension the chain? It has the rubber ring type tensioners. I might even take the cam out and give it to GR to grind.

Thanks

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1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

Also, what to do about this harmonic balancer seal surface. Just leave it, or just sleeve it?

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1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

I would try and polish the seal surface up with some fine wet & dry. I cant see any grooves in it but use your fingernail and you should be able to feel them if any.

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Yep it’s groovy alright. I think I’ll just run it with a new seal and see how it goes.

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1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

You could get a speedy sleeve from a bearing shop

yes it should slide off once you get a puller on to it

The chain doesn't have a tensioner. The slop that's in it is just because the 45 year old chain gears are worn out. They're a consumable item and should be replaced whenever an engine with a reasonable amount of use is rebuilt.

If you want to take the cam out, obviously you need to take the head off to get tension off the cam followers, but make sure you take the side plates off the engine and remove the cam followers, otherwise you'll a/ have about zero chance of getting the cam out without them getting in the way and b/ if you manage to get the cam out they'll fall into the gearbox

You are on a very slippery slope that is taking you perilously close to a full engine rebuild....

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Thanks Simon, I understand your caution about taking it too far, but I'm in there now and the cam is as far as I'll go. Is your concern for mucking up the timing and damaging something?

The cam chain actually has a nice amount of tension on it, not slack by any means. The head is already off and pushrods out, side covers are off and will take the followers out to be reground when the cam gets done. Should I maybe put the engine at #1 TDC and line timing arks up and remove gears and chain, the mark camshaft somehow before withdrawing it so it goes back in the same way?

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1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

Do not refit old followers to a reground cam, get GR to reface them with a spherical radius. It's inexpensive.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

nah, not really a concern - by the looks of your alternator bracket you're perfectly capable of getting it back together and sorted out. It's just a slippery slope that's all... the head is off, the radiator is out - assuming the gearbox is a rod change type, I think you're only 9 bolts and a roll-pin short of having the engine out

lets check my count...

4x engine mount bolts
2x clutch slave bolts
2x starter motor bolts
1x gearchange support rod
1x gearchange roll-pin



I'd align the dots before I took it out, then you know the crank is in the right position. It's pretty hard to stuff it up when you put it back in if you're aligning the dots... the cam can only go back in the same way it came out. GR usually specifies the cam angle so you might be looking for an offset key

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Thanks, cam and followers going to GR this week then will put it all back together hopefully minus a couple of oil leaks. There could be one near the clutch area but not sure, I'll run it soon and see.

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1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

I've had an oil leak from my timing cover for 18 months or so... since I put the engine together. I tried really hard to make it seal, but I haven't had a timing cover gasket seal properly in years. Anyway, I've been threatening to pull the engine out and see if I can make it seal - the remote change gear selector shaft stripped it's spline during a motorkhana today.... definitely an engine out job that one

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Bugger!
I'm finally cracking on with all the work i've got to do on the car. Fitted the new diff output gasket and seal and helicoiled a stripped thread all with engine still in the car. Picking up some sweet little alfa GTV seats this week which will go just nicely, and making some bracketry for the retractable rear seatbelts (Similar to Morbo's setup). I've decided to run the car for a bit and in the meantime rebuild another 1098 I have in another mini and then i can do the swap with not much downtime. It's a 4 sync box with pot joints unlike my rubber uni type one I have now which fouls on the exhaust.

If i wanted to check the clutch over and change the seal, is it possible to replace the clutch seal with engine in? Thanks

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1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

yes, it is, but you've gotta take the drivers side engine mount off.... and just thinking about it, haven't you already taken off the passenger side engine mount to get to crank pulley off??

you're down to 4 bolts and a roll pin!!

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?