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hpal
 Post subject: Removing output shaft
PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2018 10:02 pm 
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Hi all,
Trying to remove diff output on the RH side to fix a leak. Just need to know if I’m doing it right I don’t want to break anything. Have a bar made to hold the flange. Is it normal rh thread?? Won’t come with 1/2” rattler, should I move to 3/4” gun? Thanks


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drmini in aust
PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2018 10:26 pm 
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It's a normal RH thread. Torqued to 70 lb/ft.

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hpal
PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2018 11:15 pm 
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Thanks mate. I’ll continue to hold it with the bar and try the bigger rattle gun.

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drmini in aust
PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 8:48 am 
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Use a socket and a breaker bar. Cheap rattle guns are useless.
Don't take the side cover off or you will dislodge the shims.
Just pry the seal out with a narrow screwdriver.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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hpal
PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 10:35 am 
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Ingersoll-Rand Titanium 3/4” drive, nuff said haha!
Tried breaker bar but no good. Unfortunately have to take housing off because it needs a repair and new gasket

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drmini in aust
PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 11:25 am 
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If the new gasket is thicker than the old you will need to add shims. I would have pulled the motor if it needs this.
Bugger to do in the car...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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simon k
PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 2:14 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
If the new gasket is thicker than the old you will need to add shims. I would have pulled the motor if it needs this.
Bugger to do in the car...


yep, pain in the arse....

9 bolts and a roll pin :lol:

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hpal
PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 7:34 pm 
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Haha yeah point taken!

Got the nut off, 3/4 rattle gun sorted it. I’ll measure the gaskets and hopefully they’re the same thickness and no shimming needed.

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drmini in aust
PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 9:55 pm 
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Recent black gaskets for the last 15? years are about .015" compressed. Original brown ones were less than half that. You would need to add about a .010" shim if so.

Hint- put grease on the shims so they don't dislodge as you refit the cover.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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